A plan for Victoria

First-time visitors stepping into Vancouver Island might be surprised by the very different atmosphere as opposed to the city of Vancouver just across the Strait of Georgia.

While the island is mainly quiet and laid back, Victoria is a step up as the largest city on the island, aided by the fact that the headquarters of nearly all of British Columbia's ministries and Crown corporations are located here. The quaint skylines in the city centre meet with the genteel designs on the outskirts of downtown which identify Victoria as one of the finest resort towns of western British Columbia.

History

Victoria's prime location, right between the Canadian mainland and the Pacific Ocean, made the area one of the earliest modern developments of Canada.

In 1843, the Hudson Bay Company (HBC) arranged for the founding of Fort Victoria on Vancouver Island as a backup option, just in case its existing regional base at Fort Vancouver (at what is now Vancouver (Washington)) ended up on the wrong side of any future international border. The new outpost was named in honor of Queen Victoria, then the queen regnant of the United Kingdom. As HBC correctly foresaw, the Oregon Treaty of 1846 drew the line between the United States and the United Kingdom at the 49th parallel, with the exception of Vancouver Island.

In January 1849, the British government leased Vancouver Island to HBC in exchange for the company's promise to settle the island. The company belatedly moved its regional headquarters from Fort Vancouver to Fort Victoria.

Since then, the city's port has witnessed numerous historic events that brought influxes of people from all over the world to Canada, from the Fraser Canyon Gold Rush to opium trade between Asia and North America.

Many of Victoria's attractions (and tourist activity) are in or around the Inner Harbour and downtown, including the Parliament Buildings, the Empress Hotel, the Royal BC Museum and Beacon Hill Park. If you're pressed for time, it would be hard to go wrong spending your time there. Beyond the harbour are a handful of attractions, including the renowned Butchart Gardens, and many parks and beaches with trails, views and fewer tourists.

The Inner Harbour and Downtown

The Inner Harbour and area is the focal point of many trips to Victoria. It has the bulk of the must-see tourist attractions, and the artists, buskers and other entertainers add to the atmosphere. Many find it fascinating to watch the float planes taking off and landing. In the springtime, the Inner Harbour is filled with many beautiful flowers.

1 Beacon Hill Park, Douglas St & Dallas Rd (head south on Douglas St from downtown; or take Bus #3). Large park close to downtown with trails, lakes, gardens, splash pads/playgrounds for the kids and sports fields. The south end is on the waterfront, with a walking path and a view of the Olympic Mountains across the strait. There are plenty of ducks, some wild peacocks running around and herons. Attractions within the park include the Beacon Hill Children's Farm, which features a goat petting area, Mile 0 (the western end of the Trans-Canada highway) and the Beacon Hill Park Story Pole, which, at nearly 39 m, was the tallest free-standing totem pole in the world when it was first raised in 1956. Free. (updated Apr 2017)

Whale watching

Whale watching is a popular activity in Victoria. Three pods of orcas (killer whales) have feeding grounds between Victoria and the mainland, plus grey whales, humpback whales and minke whales migrate through the Georgia Strait at different times of the year. Some companies offer whale watching tours year-round, but the best time to see whales is considered April to October. Tours outside of those times focus less on whales and more on the other marine wildlife. Many of the companies offer whale guarantees, but they are seasonable and tend to have conditions, so careful consideration is advised if you are making a decision based on the whale guarantee.

Tours are usually around three hours and the style of boat can vary, from open-air Zodiacs to yachts with heated cabins. Zodiacs are fast and low to the water, but can be very wet (protective suits are usually supplied) are not recommended for young children (restrictions vary by company), and people with mobility issues or injuries.

1 BC Whale Tours, 1234 Wharf St, ☏ +1 250-590-5030. Two daily departures from Mar-Oct. Winter tours (Nov-Feb) are run on demand. 3-4 hour whale watching trips with a choice between open Zodiac-style boats or boats that have outdoor and indoor seating. Maximum number of passengers on a trip is 12. $121 (adult), $81-101 (children), a trip on the Luna costs an additional $10. (updated Apr 2017)

2 Eagle Wing Tours Whale Watching, 12 Erie St (at Fisherman's Wharf), ☏ +1 250-384-8008, toll-free: +1-800-708-9488. Minimum 3.5 hour whale watching trips with open and semi-covered options. Maximum number of people per trip ranges from 12-50, depending on the boat. $85-135 (mid May-Oct), $55-105 (Nov-mid May). (updated Apr 2017)

3 Five Star Whale Watching, 645 Humboldt St, ☏ +1 250-388-7223, toll-free: +1-800-634-9617. Two daily departures from early May to late Sep. Departures in Apr and Oct dependent on demand. Long operating family business (since 1985). Three hours whale watching trips in their catamaran that includes several outdoor decks and a heated indoor cabin. Maximum number of passengers is 45. $130 (adult), $95-109 (child). (updated Apr 2017)

Victoria has the second-highest number of restaurants per capita of all North American cities! The waterfront tourist area is home to a wide variety of restaurants and eateries, including several English-style pubs. Try the fish and chips or shepherds pie for a taste of England in Canada. For a more eclectic Victoria experience, check out the classy restaurants that surround Chinatown, offering interesting west-coast fusion and Asian dishes.

Pubs

1 Bent Mast Pub and Restaurant, 512 Simcoe St (at Five Corners, in James Bay), ☏ +1 250-383-6000. Mon-Thu noon-midnight, Fri noon-2AM, Sat 10AM-2AM, Sun 10AM-midnight. Burgers, sandwiches and pub fare in an old Victorian house. A great place to drink, eat, make friends, and have fun. Talk to the staff for a bit of the history of the house. Starters $6-14, mains $10-20. (updated Apr 2017)

2 Garrick’s Head Pub, 66 Bastion Square, ☏ +1 250-384-6835. Mon-Sat 11AM-1AM, Sun 11AM-midnight. A simple pub — and “One of the oldest English pubs in Canada” according to their website (est. 1867) — but with excellent food and amazing friendly service. As is typical in such pubs, not a great selection for veggheads, but their veggie burger (nuts and chick peas) is really fantastic. The fries are beer-battered to a lovely crispy dark golden colour and the fish is cooked really well, flaky, not squeaky. Mushy peas that come with the steak pie are very tasty. Lots of traditional British food... but with taste. There are also over 50 beers on tap. Not enough for you, how about that fireplace? Starters $7-15, mains $13-19. (updated Apr 2017)

3 Irish Times, 1200 Government St, ☏ +1 250-383-7775. 9AM-1AM. Wonderful pub meals, good beer and lots of seating. Live music most nights. (updated Apr 2017)

4 Maude Hunter's Pub, 3810 Shelbourne St, ☏ +1 250-721-2337. Mon-Thu 11:30AM-midnight, Fri Sat 11AM-midnight, Sun 11AM-11PM. A neighbourhood pub.

Because Victoria’s downtown is fairly small, most of the nightlife is within walking distance. Cabs aren’t too expensive and there isn’t too far to go to get from point A to B. Victoria's police force has an aggressive crackdown on drinking and driving, so take a cab, all you have to do is stumble to Douglas and eventually you will grab one before someone else. But if it’s a special night like Halloween or New Year’s Eve, expect a bit of a wait. Compared to clubs in larger cities, cover in Victoria is cheap, ranging from $3 to $10. Fridays and Saturdays: expect to pay $7 to get in the door and another $2 to check your coat. Compared to larger cities, Victoria's liquor is pretty pricey. There is a law in Victoria that requires all drinks to cost $3 at minimum for a serving of alcohol. Expect to pay at least $3 but most likely more for each drink. Beers and shots are about $5. Most bars have cash machines inside, and accept only cash as payment.

1 Lucky Bar, 517 Yates St, ☏ +1-250-382-5825, info@luckybar.ca. A bit small, but not nearly as costly as others. Wednesday night is Mod Night so dress in your hipster finest. Thursday night's "Hang The DJ" is probably the most tasteful music in the city, and the music-snob crowd reflects that. The crowd is a mix of straight and queer. Monday night is 90210 so dress to impress and get down there early. (updated Jan 2023)

2 Moon Under Water Pub & Brewery, 350B Bay St, ☏ +1 250-380-0706. Mon-Thu 11:30AM-11PM, Fri 11:30AM - midnight, Sat 11:30AM - 11PM, Sun 11:30AM-8PM. A "beer" bar. Food is matched to the beer. In-house German-inspired beers are served along side craft beers from around British Columbia. Free overnight parking. (updated Jan 2023)

By foot

Walking is an easy, free, and fun way to explore the entire downtown area. Make your way from hotel to museum to shops; stop for coffee; stroll along the harborside; grab a pint and some fish-n-chips.

By bike

Biking Victoria is one of the most bike-friendly cities in Canada, which may have something to do with the very mild winters. There are many places to rent bikes. One place is CycleBCRentals, at 685 Humboldt St. (☏ +1 250-380-2453 or toll-free ☏ +1-866-380-2453). Bike rentals start at $25 for day (Jan 2025), and they also rent scooters (from $100/day) and motorbikes (from $150/day) here.

Bikesvictoria.com offers affordable bike rentals starting at $20 per day (Jan 2025).

By public transit

2 BC Transit (Victoria Regional Transit System), ☏ +1 250-382-6161. (updated Mar 2022)

Runs a bus network within Victoria, between Victoria and the Saanich Peninsula including Sidney, and between Victoria and cities to the west including Langford and Sooke. Regular fares are a flat $3.00. Children aged 12 and under are free. Day passes are also available; they cost $6.00 cash. No transfers are available with a single cash fare -- buy a day pass instead. UMO tap cards are available, which can be loaded with fares and will automatically give a day pass and two hour transfer period. Credit and Debit can be used for the same purpose. Victoria, along with Kelowna, Toronto and Ottawa, is one of only a few cities in North America which use double decker buses in their city transit systems. Some notable bus routes, all which operate daily:

61 - During morning and afternoon rush hours from Monday to Friday travels between downtown Victoria and Sooke with numerous trips. Outside of those hours, the route travels between Langford and Sooke (connects with route 50 in Langford during this time).

There is a drug presence among people living on the streets and in the bars. This means that panhandling can be a problem. Panhandlers are aggressive despite laws against this behaviour. You may wish to avoid Pandora Ave between Cook and Quadra as this is where a huge majority hang out. Do not walk around parks and grassy areas in sandals or bare feet as there are many needles discarded in these areas. City workers are quick to clean them up but it is always a good idea to be careful. There is a strong police presence on downtown streets during the summer, especially on weekends at night.

Because all the bars and clubs are very close together, many drunken people spill into the streets at 2AM on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday night and are in fact more dangerous than the street people. If you are out and about at this time (or have your downtown hotel room window open) be prepared to deal with all that drunken idiots have to offer such as public urination, shouting and rude comments.

In the unlikely event of a major earthquake, duck and cover and stay where you are during the shaking, then go outside once the shaking stops. Buildings and other structures are unlikely to collapse. Your largest threats come from breaking windows and falling objects such as ceiling tiles and bookshelves. Try to get under a table, desk, or door jamb to reduce your exposure to these threats. You are more likely to be injured if you try to run during the shaking.