A plan for Nagoya

The hub of Aichi prefecture, Nagoya is Japan's fourth-largest city after Tokyo, Yokohama, and Osaka and one of the nation's major economic centers. In terms of manufacturing, as home to auto-making giants Toyota, Honda, and Mitsubishi Motors, Nagoya is to Japan what Detroit is to the United States — and it was completely flattened during World War II.

History

Now a modern metropolis, Nagoya gets its name from an old manor called Nagono which was built in the area in the 12th century. The manor prospered for two hundred years, and people began to refer to the area by the manor's name. Over time, the pronunciation of the Chinese characters in the name "Nagono" shifted to "Nagoya", by which the city is now known.

Three famous local figures later helped to put Nagoya firmly on the map of Japan. Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Tokugawa Ieyasu all hailed from around Nagoya, and all shared the ambitious goal of unifying Japan under one government. Tokugawa finally succeeded in 1603 after winning in the Battle of Sekigahara, and established the Tokugawa Shogunate, which would rule Japan for the next 250 years.

Soon after uniting the country, Tokugawa Ieyasu ordered the construction of Nagoya Castle for his son. He then ordered the people of nearby Kiyosu (on the outskirts of Nagoya) to move to the area around the castle, and a town soon came into being. Cotton, ceramics and lumber were the main industries sustaining the town as it grew into a small city.

Following Japan's opening to the world during the Meiji era, Nagoya rapidly industrialized and established transportation links with the rest of Japan that would allow it to easily export its goods. During World War I, Nagoya became known for its foundries as well as its machinery and heavy industry exports, which would continue to grow throughout the 1930s.

The 1920s marked the beginning of the automotive industry in Nagoya, which continues in importance to the current day. At the heart of the industry is the Toyota Motor Corporation. Starting from humble beginnings as a loom-making company, Toyota entered the automobile business in the 1930s. It now stands as the world's largest automaker, and continues to dominate the local economy along with the car-making giants Honda and Mitsubishi.

1 Port of Nagoya Aquarium (名古屋港水族館 Nagoya-kō-suizoukan) (a short walk from Subway Nagoyakō Stn. (Meikō line)), ☏ +81 52 654-7080. Daily 09:30-17:00 (until 20:00 Jul 21-Aug 31). (site in Japanese) Large aquarium featuring a number of different marine environments, including killer whales. Adults ¥2,000.

2 Toyota Commemorative Museum of Industry and Technology (トヨタ産業技術記念館 Toyota-sangyō-gijutsu-kinenkan), 4-1-35 Noritake Shinmachi, Nishi-ku (3 minute walk from Meitetsu Sako Stn (Nagoya line), 10-minute walk from exit 2, Subway: Kamejima Station (Higashiyama Line)), ☏ +81 52-551-6115. Tue-Sun 09:30-17:00 (last admission 16:30), (restaurant open until 21:00), closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a holiday), New Year's holidays. Built on the site of one of Toyota's original loom factories, this museum tells the story of the Toyota corporation, from its beginnings as an industrial loom manufacturer to its transformation into one of the world's largest car manufacturers. Includes large loom machinery and car display halls as well as a hands-on "Technoland" with interactive science exhibits. Museum also includes a library, video library with personal viewing booths, restaurant, cafe, and gift shop. Displays, brochures, and audioguides available in English and several other languages. Barrier-free access for disabled visitors. Freespot Wi-Fi access available. Adults ¥1000, Jr. & Sr. high school students: ¥300, Elem. School Students: ¥200.

Ride the gold and white Nagoya Sightseeing Bus Me-Guru (メーグル) past many of the city's main attractions. Operates T-Su. Offers hop-on-hop-off hourly service Tu-F from 09:30-17:30, and Sa Su every half hour. Closed M, year-end holidays. Daypass: adults ¥500, children ¥250. (includes discount on featured attractions). Single ride: adults ¥200, children ¥100. Daypasses may be purchased getting on the bus. 1-day transport passes also accepted.

Catch a traditional Japanese Noh play at the Nagoya Noh Theatre. (Subway: Shiyakusho stn.)

Go for a jog (or a walk) around beautiful Meijo Park (名城公園 Meijo Koen), one of Nagoya's largest green spaces, and take in the great view of Nagoya Castle (Subway: Meijo-Koen station, Meijo line). Showers and lockers available.

Higashiyama Park (東山公園 Higashiyama-koen). (Higashiyama-koen station). Features a zoo, conservatory, monorail, roller coasters, "sky tower" and a great deal of open space.

Events

1 Nagoya Sumo Tournament (大相撲名古屋場所 Ō-zumō-Nagoya-basho), Aichi Prefectural Gymnasium, 1-1 Ninomaru, Naka-ku (a short walk from Shiyakusho stn. (Meijo Line)), ☏ +81 52-221-0737, fax: +81 52 221-0739. 15 days mid-July. Watch the big boys of Japanese sumo battle it out in Nagoya. An annual tradition. Tickets are generally available at the counter unless it is the first or last day. Ticket prices start at ¥3,200 and up. The cheapest seats are fine for first-time sumo watchers and are not much worse than the ¥4,700 seats.

Osu Summer Festival (大須夏祭り Osu Natsu-matsuri) (Short walk from Osu Kannon Stn (Tsurumai line) exit 1). Yearly street festival held in the shopping streets around Osu Kannon temple. Featuring live stage performances, street performers, Brazilian samba parade and cosplay parade.

Nagoya is big on miso, a sauce made from fermented soybeans and grain. The preferred style is red miso (赤味噌 akamiso), fermented up to two years for a stronger taste than the usual "white" miso, with Hatchō miso (八丁味噌) particularly famous.

Classic Nagoya dishes include:

misokatsu (味噌カツ), fried pork cutlet with a rich miso sauce

miso nikomi udon (味噌煮込みうどん), a thick miso and chicken stew perfect for winter

tenmusu (天むす), shrimp tempura wrapped up in rice and dried seaweed and turned into a handy portable package

tebasaki (手羽先), fried chicken wings marinated in a sweet sauce

kishimen (きしめん), a flat, broad type of udon wheat noodle often served in a miso or soy sauce broth. Available in most restaurant-gai in shopping centres or close to major railway stations.

ankake supa(=spaghetti) (あんかけスパ), spaghetti with a starchy gravy-like tomato-based sauce with a kick of black pepper. Often with onions, green peppers, and ham, bacon, or sausage.

hitsumabushi (ひつまぶし), an eel dish served with rice in a small box. It can be eaten three ways: first, just the eel and rice; second, with green onions and nori, and third, with tea or soup stock poured over it.

uirō (外郎), a confectionery made out of rice flour and sugar; a little firmer than gelatin but not as sticky as mochi. Many different flavors are available, including red bean (小豆 azuki) and green tea (抹茶 matcha) .

doteni (どて煮), Beef tendons and pork intestine are simmered for a long time in soybean miso such as Haccho miso and mirin.

Budget

1 Café de Metro, 1F Kanayama station (North Exit). Serves up basic curry and donburi dishes, including a decent misokatsu, for ¥480 with coffee/tea, or ¥680 with miso soup and pickles. (updated May 2022)

2 Jerry's UNO (near Fureai Plaza in the Osu shopping district, to the giant manekineko statue's left (your right if you are facing the statue)). It's a nice little taco shop that will run you about ¥500 per taco. They also have a nice selection of international beers. (updated May 2022)

Around Nagoya station, there are a lot of places for cheap drinking. Sakae is the big nightlife district, in a loose triangle formed by the Sakae, Yaba-cho and Osu Kannon stations. Sakae has a large red light district as well, but as with most of Japan, there's no sense of danger so don't worry about drifting around. There are countless izakayas around Kanayama station, both cheap chains and more upscale places.

If the bar and club scene is not for you, try Nagoya Friends and their bimonthly international parties. Always a dynamic mix of foreigners and Japanese. At the party it's all you can drink and eat (~¥3000).

1 Serge Gen's Restaurant Group Nagoya, 11-26 Nishiki 3-Chome, Naka-ku, ☏ +81 52-209-2333. 11:00-03:00. Five top-quality restaurants in the heart of Nagoya, Japan. From Italian cafe, Yakiniku, Sushi, to catered party events. ¥3000.

Bars

2 Shooters Sports Bar & Grill (シューターズ スポーツバー＆グリル), Pola Building 2F, Sakae 2-9-26, Naka-ku (S of Fushimi subway stn. (Higashiyama, Tsurumai lines) exit 5), ☏ +81 52-202-7077, info@shooters-nagoya.com. Mon-Thu 17:00-02:00, Fri 17:00-02:00, Sat 11:30-02:00, Sun 11:30-00:00. American and international food and drinks. A friendly, neighborhood sports bar with a mixed crowd and live music on Sundays.

Yama-chan (山ちゃん) (35 locations in and around Nagoya). (Japanese) Known for its tebasaki (手羽先) fried chicken wings (one of Nagoya's specialties), this seemingly ubiquitous chain of izakayas is one of Nagoya's favorites. English menu available.

3 Cigar Club Kanou, Montesharine Bldg. 1F, Sakae 1 chome 10-30, Naka-ku (near Fushimi Stn. (Higashiyama, Tsurumai Lines), exit via exit 7 and continue W to the Hilton Hotel, turn left in front of the Hilton and continue S, the bar is on the left side of the street), ☏ +81 52-231-5534, fax: +81 52-231-5534. Tue-Sat 16:30-01:00. Near the Hilton hotel, Cigar Club Kanou offers food, drink and a wide array of cigars (with a walk-in humidor.)

Nagoya is a big automotive industry center, and it shows. The street network is extensive and even downtown locations can be easily reached by car. On the downside, trains and subways are less convenient than in Tokyo or Kansai, and more expensive. If you're travelling with a JR Rail Pass, the train network doesn't have many stations in the city and you'll probably find yourself using the bus or subway a lot, something your pass won't cover. A city ordinance requires commuters to stand still on escalators. Walking or running on escalators is prohibited to prevent accidents.

By subway

There are 6 subway lines:

The red Sakuradōri Line (桜通線, S) curves southwest from Nagoya Station.

The purple Meijō Line (名城線, M) runs in a loop around the eastern side of the city, connecting Sakae and Kanayama.

The Meikō Line (名港線, E) spur branches from Kanayama to Nagoya Port.

The yellow Higashiyama Line (東山線, H) connects Nagoya, Fushimi, Sakae, and Fujigaoka.

The blue Tsurumai Line (鶴舞線, T) connects Fushimi and Osu Kannon, then goes south.

The pink Kamiiida Line (上飯田線, I) is the shortest line in the system, with only two stations: Kamiiida and Heian-dori.

Subways run every several minutes between about 05:30 until about 00:30. Fares range from ¥200 to ¥320. One day passes can be bought for ¥620 (bus), ¥760 (subway), and ¥870 (bus & subway).

If you are visiting on a weekend, public holiday, or the 8th of the month, buy the 'Donichi Eco Kippu'. It allows unlimited rides on city buses and subways for just ¥620, which is cheaper than the standard 24-hour pass.

On Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays you can also take advantage of the cheaper Donichi-Eco-Kippu (ドニチエコきっぷ) one-day subway ticket which offers unlimited subway travel for ¥620. This pass is available from ticket machines, or can be purchased in person from a station employee at the ticket gate.

City transportation one day passes also offer discounted entry at various attractions in Nagoya, including Nagoya Castle and the Toyota Museum.

More information about public transportation in Nagoya can be found on the official website of the Nagoya Transportation Bureau.