A plan for Košice

Košice has had a colourful history with its ever changing medieval and modern rulers of Hungarians, these days hardly imaginable Turks for a while, Czechs and nowadays Slovaks. Serving its part as a centre of what may best be described as a frontier of Slovak hill country, Hungarian lowlands and Ukrainian/Russian/Soviet East, it has become a predominantly Slovak city in what was then Czechoslovakia after its emergence in chaos of reconciliations after the First World War. Until these days the city is inhabited by descendants of east Slovak dwellers with many relations in the gorgeous rural surroundings of the city who were flocking to the town during its industrial boom after the World War II and a large Hungarian-speaking minority along with its fast growing and often resented population of Roma.

This is the second largest city in Slovakia with a population of 230,000 (2024), and is the capital of Košice Self-governing Region. It is not often visited from elsewhere. This may however help in engaging with many residents who are often pleased that foreigners visit their city.

The city prides on being known as "The City of Peace" thanks to non-violent ethnic and national tolerance throughout its history. Visitors can get a view into the history of a lesser known corner of Europe, and at the same journey enjoy a lively art scene and nightlife.

Most travelers will find 24 hours in Košice is plenty.

Orientation

Košice sits in a basin, above 200 m above sea level, where the Hungarian plains meet the Carpathian mountains. A few suburbs have been built on the mountainsides, though not much higher than the rest of the city. Towards the south, along the Hornád river the plains open up; but unlike what one might expect of a city and a river, it passes through the suburbs of Košice rather than going right through the core. A landmark south of the city is a massive steel plant, the U.S. Steel Košice, employing over 10,000 people.

Most of Košice's attractions are along the main pedestrianized street, known as Hlavná ulica (Main Street), Námestie Maratónu mieru (Peace Marathon Square, the north end of Hlavna), and Námestie osloboditeľov (Square of the liberators, at the southern end of Hlavna) at various parts.

With its unique atmosphere Hlavná ulica creates the heart of the town. In the past, it used to be a medieval square and the whole town started to grow from this point. Now this place is flat, however in the past it used to be hilly and even a stream flew there.

The "Čermeľský potok" (The Tshermel stream) used to create an island on the main street, where the Saint Elizabeth cathedral is located now. Due to developing infrastructure, this stream was filled in in 1899 and was renewed only symbolically during the renovation of the main street in the 1990s.

Today, all the traffic from the main street is excluded, therefore it is a very pleasant pedestrian site. Except the Saint Elizabeth Cathedral, you will find also the Saint Michael Chapel, Urban tower, the State Theater, the so-called singing fountain (a unique fountain in Europe), as well as many stylish original bourgeois houses.

The oldest sights in the city are from Medieval times, including the ruins of fortifications, the Mikluš Prison housing a museum of Medieval justice, the Katova bašta (city walls) and the castle outside the city.

Museums and galleries

1 East Slovak Museum (Vychodoslovenske muzeum), Námestie Maratónu mieru 2, ☏ +421 55 622 0309, info@vsmuzeum.sk. Tue-Sat 09:00-17:00, Sun 14:00-18:00. Museum was established in 1872 and it is one of the oldest and most significant museums in Slovakia. From an architectural point of view, the buildings of the museum are interesting historical sights. In this museum, the following permanent expositions can be found: the nature of Carpathia, Hundreds of years of art, "Rodosto" – the memorial house of Franz II Rakoczy, Artistic metal founding in Eastern Slovakia and Centuries of Košice – Mikluš's Prison. Except these expositions, there are always some temporary events and expositions. €8 for four exhibitions including Mikluš's Prison, the house of Franz II Rakoczy, and the pharmacy (apothecary) museum. A further €8 for two more exhibitions. (updated Jul 2021)

1 Walking the historic centre. The best thing to do on a short trip or shortly after arriving is to walk the compact and lovely historic centre. (updated Jul 2021)

For children

2 Children's Heritage Railway (Detska historicka zeleznica), ☏ +421 905 496 426, kezeleznica@gmail.com. 3-km-long railway line in the forest. Three locomotives, Katka-named vapor locomotive, Danka and Janka diesel locomotives operating from the end of the suburbs to the recreational area of Alpinka. children: one way €3/roundtrip €4, adults: one way €5/roundtrip €6. (updated Jul 2021)

3 Zoo, ☏ +421 55 796 8011, zoo@zookosice.sk. Daily 08:00-19:00. One of the largest zoos in Europe by its area. In the area there is also DinoPark with life sized prehistoric dinosaur models. children €5, adults €8 (including DinoPark). (updated Jul 2021)

Cultural life

4 The State Theatre (Štátne divadlo). The State Theater, already mentioned in the See section, proposes a classic program that includes operas and ballets for in Slovak language for quite low prices. It is also a way to visit the interior of the building. It is possible to purchase tickets for performances on F 09:00 - 12:30 and 13:00 - 17:30PM, Sa 09:00-13:00 at the cash register on the west facade of the building or an hour before the performances in the vestibule at the main entrance. (updated Jul 2021)

5 Kasárne Kulturpark, Kukucinova 2, ☏ +421 55 685 4299, office@k13.sk. Cultural Center in old barracks completely renovated in 2013 including the park that surrounds it. Offers concerts, exhibitions and conferences. (updated Jul 2021)

6 Tabačka Kulturfabrik, Gorkeho 2, ☏ +421 907 548 586, info@tabacka.sk. Alternative cultural center including concerts and movies. The bar is a trendy place and cooking is good. (updated Jul 2021)

Hlavna and adjacent streets has the greatest concentration of restaurants. In outer districts you will find popular pizza places. Prices usually are a bit higher downtown. On Sunday restaurants often open only for dinner. There's just one completely vegetarian restaurant (Ajvega) but most restaurants have one or several vegetarian dishes on the menu.

Budget

1 Panda, Fejova 13. open from 09:00 to 19:00, closed on Sun. Asian bistro, good and cheap food, average price for lunch is €3.50. Ask for opekane rezance, Asian style noodles for €1.50. (updated Jan 2023)

2 Pizzeria Zvon, Zvonárska 133/4, ☏ +421 55 622 56 89. Lovely pizza restaurant, with great food, was about €5.20 for a large pizza. All stone baked on hand thrown dough, brilliant toppings, lively atmosphere, and great staff. €4-10 (Oct 2016). (updated Jan 2023)

3 Bamboo, Hlavná 78, ☏ +421 55 622 5895, bamboo.restaurant@centrum.sk. One of the Asian restaurants that's not a fast food place. €5 (Feb 2018). (updated Jan 2023)

4 Burekas, Vratna 58, ☏ +421 911 285 245. Israeli restaurant known for its falafel and hummus. €3-9 (March 2019). (updated Jan 2023)

5 Santa Lucia, Československej armády 18 (Tiptop mall), ☏ +421 918 98 99 97, santalucia@santalucia.sk. A good pizzeria in a small shopping mall. menu of the day 4.50 (March 2018). (updated Jan 2023)

6 Kebab Haus, Hviezdoslavova 1. Kebab place, with kebab in pita, with salad, fries or rice. €5-9 (Feb 2018). (updated Jan 2023)

7 Arthur Gelato KE, Hlavná 21, ☏ +421 911 406 688. Mon 12:00-21:00, Tue-Sun 10:00-21:00. Delicious gelato parlour. Many flavours to choose from. €1. (updated Sep 2024)

Mid-range

8 Karczma Mlyn, Hlavna 86, ☏ +421 55 622 0547, mlyn@karczmamlyn.sk. Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri Sat 11:00-00:00, Sun 11:00-22:00. Slovak and Polish cuisine on the main street. Rural decoration. €8-15 for person (July 2021). (updated Jan 2023)

9 Pub u kohuta (Pub u kohúta), Hrnciarska 23, ☏ +421 948 314 384, pubukohutake@gmail.com. Mon 11:00-22:00, Tue-Thu 11:00-23:00, Fri 11:00-00:00, Sat 12:00-00:00, Sun closed. Slovak cuisine and particularly nice terrace in summer with concert in the evening. €5-15 for person (July 2021). (updated Jan 2023)

Košice is faithful to its east Slovakian tradition in providing great and cheap parties for both locals and travellers while competing with many of Europe's much bigger and more often visited cities in what travel books usually call 'liveliness'. Season may vary with summer months unexpectedly providing a bit of a lull in usual Friday/Saturday silliness but city's center compact and concentrated bar scene provides many hidden gems disregard of day of week or month of the year.

Non-alcoholic

There many ice cream shops, many open during the summer but some around the year, functioning as pastry shops in the winter. Ice cream shops seem to have the same prices all around town.

1 Dobrá čajovňa, Mäsiarska 42, ☏ +421 907 460 718. Tea salon with a large choice, and a hookah. (updated Feb 2018)

2 Caffé Trieste, Ursulinska 2, ☏ +421 911 272 931 (téléphone portable), caffetrieste.sk@gmail.com. Italian-style café part of a chain. The chain has three other cafés in Košice: at Žriedlová 11 west of old town, at Trieda SNP 395/37 further west and at Južna trieda 2/A south of old town. (updated Mar 2016)

3 Aida, Hlavná 44, ☏ +421 55 6221014. Popular ice cream and pastry place, formerly a chain, now just this café. (updated Feb 2018)

4 Urban café, Vrátna 4, ☏ +421 55 685 42 07. A café owned by a Belgian with pralines, waffles and other pastries. Ice cream is more expensive but also better. (updated Feb 2018)

5 Trdelniky, Hlavná 97. Specializing in a trdelnik, a spit cake from western Slovakia reminiscent of Hungarian kürtőskalács. (updated Feb 2018)

Beer bars

6 Beer House, Hlavná 54. Beer House offers probably the widest range of beers in the city. The cheapest beer is for €1.06/0.5l, most expensive €1.96/0.5l. They offer pizza at the same time and you can order it until 2am. There is live music every Thursday and Saturday.

7 Kembridž (Cambridge) (a 5-minute walk or 1 stop tram ride north of Namestie Maratonu Mieru (the north end of Hlavna)). A popular Slovakian style and cheap 'biergarten' enjoyable on warm evenings within easy reach of the center. (updated Mar 2015)

Košice has a small and compact city centre, and is mostly navigable by foot. If you are staying in the suburbs, the tram system is cheap and efficient. With good bus and tram connections around the whole city, transport is very easy to handle. You can get practically anywhere by public transport and all the main sights of the city are within walking distance.

By public transport

Public transport is operated by DPMK. English information on their website is limited, the route planner is more informative. Services usually run from 5:00 in the morning to 23:00 in the evening, with a few bus services running during the night.

Ticketing

Tickets for public transport can be bought in various ways. For foreign travelers, probably the most convenient is using one of the available apps. The web page/app mhdke.sk is pretty nice, as you don't have to install anything.

Other forms of tickets include sales points listed below, vending machines (at some stops), newsstands, from drivers or as SMS (if you have a Slovak SIM card). They should be validated in a machine in the vehicle the first time you're using it, then you can travel and transfer as long as the ticket type is valid. Some ticket prices for adults are (as of Aug 2024): €1 for a 30-minute ticket, €1.20 for a 60-minute ticket, €3.80 for a 24-hour ticket and €12 for a 7-day ticket. Tickets for night buses costs more, and buying tickets from the driver also costs more.

In addition to paper tickets there are electronic ticket cards similar to ones on public transit systems elsewhere the world. They can be bought from the sales points, are loaded with electronic money and are used for buying (slight discount compared to paper tickets) and simultaneously validating tickets in the validating machines.

3 Customer service and sales point (Zákaznícke centrum), Bardejovská 6 (in front of the tram depot). (updated Mar 2018)

4 Sales point, Rooseveltova č. 3. (updated Mar 2018)

5 Sales point, Nám. Osloboditeľov (small blue kiosk in the front of Centrum Hotel). (updated Mar 2018)

While Košice is a generally safe city, it’s advisable to avoid certain areas late at night, such as parks and the vicinity of the train station. As with any urban area, exercise caution in places where there might be a concentration of homeless individuals. If you need assistance, you can always call 112 for emergency medical, police, or fire department services.

One area that may not be ideal for tourists is Luník IX, which faces significant socio-economic challenges, including poverty and limited infrastructure. Though the area struggles with social issues, it’s important to remember that these are complex problems, and people living there deserve dignity and respect.

If you’re walking on Hlavná Street in the evening after sightseeing, it’s always wise to stay aware of your surroundings. While the city is generally safe, as with any destination, you should remain cautious in less-populated areas or unfamiliar spots after dark. Standard safety practices for women and solo travelers, such as staying in well-lit areas and avoiding isolated locations, are always recommended.