A plan for Da Nang

The regions surrounding Da Nang (My Son, Quang Nam) were founded by the Cham Hindus perhaps 3,000 years ago, serving as the capital city and centre of the Hindu Champa Dynasty. Vietnamese invasions into the region in the 17th century significantly halted Cham development.

Given that Da Nang was the first point of colonial invasion, many vestiges of French architecture are present in the historic buildings. Da Nang was also where American combat troops first landed during the Vietnam War, and there are also many remnants of that era left over in Da Nang. During the war, many monuments and buildings were destroyed. On the way to My Khe Beach, the ruins of a military base remain in the form of helicopter hangars; however, these are now more easily spotted at the airport, which serves both civil and military flights.

Since the early 1990s, the government has been enthusiastically pursuing foreign investment and infrastructure development, and a tourism boom exploded in the mid-2010s with rustic backpacker lodges giving way to highrise hotels. Initially driven by foreign visitors, particularly Koreans, the Vietnamese themselves have also discovered the city and during holiday periods the city gets packed.

Da Nang has some of the best roads in the country. The coast road is at least four lanes from northern provincial boundary to southern provincial boundary. Compared to either Hanoi or HCMC, traffic in Da Nang is always relatively light, although huge trucks blast through every now and again and there are brief rush hours.

For years, tourists have bypassed Da Nang on their travel itineraries, preferring to spend their time viewing the ancient imperial court at Hue or walking the streets of the old town in Hoi An. And yet, as those who call it home are aware, Da Nang has plenty of interesting and beautiful sights of its own. Nestled between the Annamite Range and the South China Sea on the banks of the Han River, Da Nang's natural beauty is hard to miss; a trip up into the mountains and down to the beach should be on your to-do list. Culturally, Da Nang once lay at the northernmost reaches of the Kingdom of Champa; the Museum of Cham Sculpture, located in the city centre, should be mandatory if you're planning on visiting the ruins at nearby My Son.

1 Ba Na Hill Station (Bà Nà) (about 40 km west), ☏ +84 236 3791 999. Ba Na is 1,487 m above sea level in the Truong Son Mountains. In the 1920s, it was a French resort that boasted 200 villas, restaurants, and clubs. It is known as the second Dalat or Sa Pa in central Vietnam. Its temperate climate, unspoiled forest, and spectacular views over the South China Sea and the Lao mountains made Ba Na a popular retreat for both the French and the wealthy Vietnamese. Today the area still attracts locals and tourists alike thanks to a cable car system that was opened in 2009 and set two Guinness World Records for its height and length. Great view from the top but it's really useless to stay overnight since the accommodation options are shabby and overpriced (US$80-150 per night). You need to get a taxi to Suoi Mo Station (US$25 one-way from Da Nang) then pay 550,000 dong per adult (250,000 dong for children between 1-1.3 m tall, free admission for children under 1 m tall) for the ticket to the cable car and the Fantasy Park. (updated Feb 2025)(Update 2024: The complete Area is an event park it called "Sunworld" and foreigner has to pay 900.000 VND now.

Beaches

Danang is justly famous for its beaches. My Khe Beach — known as China Beach during the Vietnam War, although the name is rarely if ever used locally — to the east is the top draw, gently curving nearly 40 km south towards Hoi An. While the beach is uninterrupted, it changes names several times along the way, becoming Non Nước near the Marble Mountains, Hà My beyond that, and finally An Bàng and Cửa Đại at the Hoi An end. To the northwest of the city is another long beach variously known as Nguyễn Tất Thành and Xuân Thiều (Red Beach), running all the way up towards the Hải Vân Pass.

1 My Khe Beach (Bãi biển Mỹ Khê), Hoang Sa Rd. Across the Han River from the city centre, My Khe Beach is a wide, sandy beach long known for its beauty. Locals will often gather here as early in the morning as 05:00 to enjoy the surf while the sun rises over the ocean. Tourists often arrive later on, when the locals have already started their day; you'll probably find that by 09:00 or 10:00 the beach is mostly deserted. An even larger local crowd gathers in the late afternoon, with folks wading, picnicking and strolling along the beach well into the night. The beach isn't steep, meaning that you can swim far out and still feel your feet touch the bottom. During busy times, lifeguards float around in coracle boats, whistling at those who venture too far out. While access to the beach itself is free, the public showers charge a token 2000 dong/person for entry (motorbike parking extra) and the beachfront cafes rent out beach chairs with a shade for around 40,000 dong. (updated Jun 2022)

Although not a culinary capital like the ancient imperial capital Hue, Da Nang still has more than enough variety to keep you well fed throughout your stay. Seafood (hải sản) is popular, so you shouldn't be surprised to see plenty of fish (cá), shrimp (tôm), squid (mực), clams (nghêu), snails (ốc), the list goes on. There are many vegetarian restaurants which are listed as "Quán chay" ("vegetarian") or less frequently "Quán ăn chay" ("vegetarian restaurant"), and most are vegan. The vegetarian restaurants have a wide selection of dishes and are generally cleaner than places that are not vegetarian.

Then there are regional specialities like mì Quảng, or Quang Nam-style noodles, featuring chicken, shrimp, quail eggs, peanuts and rice crackers in a turmeric-spiced broth; bún chả cá, or rice vermicelli with fish sausage; and bún mắm, or rice vermicelli served with a strong fish sauce that's not for the weak of palate. Central Vietnamese love their food to be spicy, so be warned that the chili peppers (ớt) can be strong even if small.

Budget

The night markets (see Buy) are also a great place to feast on local food cheaply.

Downtown (around the Han market Chợ Hàn)

1 Phở 29 - Phở Hà Nội, 1A Trần Quốc Toản, Hải Châu 1. Bun cha, banh xeo and the fried rice are nice. Huge portions and good staff with customer service. Nice ambient sidestreet seating and many drink choices. (updated Jan 2023)

2 Edo Sushi, 27 Thái Phiên, Phước Ninh, Hải Châu. Budget Japanese restaurant. The dishes are diverse. Most of the staff are students. (updated Jan 2023)

3 Cơm gà A.Hải, 100 Thái Phiên, Phước Ninh, Hải Châu. Typical basic Vietnamese restaurant. The chicken rice that the locals also enjoy is nice. Both the roast chicken and thinly steamed chicken rice are tasty. The chicken soup served first is also tasty. (updated Jan 2023)

4 Bánh Mì̀ Bà Lan, 62 Trưng Nữ Vương, Bình Hiên, Hải Châu, ☏ +84 93 564 62 86. 16:00-19:00. One of the most famous sandwich carts in the city. Try their bánh mì que which is a string baguette filled with a pork pâté. US$1 (Jan 2018). (updated Aug 2022)

Dac San Tra Tien (Da Nang Pineapple and Jasmine Tea), 46 Nhon Hoa 17, Hoa An, Cam Le (near Centre Bus Station of Da Nang city), ☏ +84 969431513. Whether you're a tea lover or just looking to try something new, Da Nang Pineapple and Jasmine Tea is a must-try beverage that will leave you feeling refreshed and satisfied. So, come to Da Nang and indulge in this delicious and unique tea experience. (updated May 2023)

Bars and discos

1 Bamboo Bar 2 (corner of Bach Dang and Thai Phien), ☏ +84 905544769. Mon-Fri 13:00-02-00 Sat Sun 11:00-03:00. Popular haunt for expats. Bamboo 2's owner speaks excellent English, there are always foreigners there.

2 Festival Disco (on the second corner going up river from Cau Song Han on Tran Hung Dao). The newest disco and the only one on the My Khe Beach side of the river. It's part of a complex with a restaurant and karaoke rooms. If you buy the staff a drink here (a normal thing to do in this kind of disco-night club) they can be very aggressive about drinking it fast and running up a big bill for you.

3 Golden Pine. This is a popular bar opposite Memory Lounge on the river side. Open till 04:00 or last customer, they play music on request from customers. Lots of regulars here and a casual vibe. (updated May 2015)

4 Green Town Bar, 50 Bach Dang St. One of relatively few bars open past the witching hour and most expats drop in there for either an early evening or late night drink. The view is excellent with an outdoor terrace and 2 big pool tables inside. The prices are very reasonable. Food is available until 22:00.

5 New Phuong Dong Disco, 20 Dong Da (near the mouth of the Han River). New Phuong Dong has a resident Ghanaian DJ and many visiting singers from Saigon and Hanoi.

6 Red Hot Bar, 179 Nguyen Van Linh (on Nguyen Van Linh St). A real late night place. ("Late night" is more flexible in Da Nang than in Hanoi. Most of the time discos and places like Red Hot, an approximations of a Thai girlie-bar, close at 01:00 or 01:30, but if the police decide to crack down, they may unexpectedly close at midnight or 00:30).

By ride hailing

The average cabbie speaks no English, so Grab is very useful for getting to your destination, it can even translate chat messages both ways. Rates are generally competitive with taxis, although the quality of cars or motorbikes can be a bit of a gamble. It may be worth paying the extra 10% to get a classier "Plus" vehicle.

Motorbike taxis (xe ôm, literally hug-vehicle) are plentiful (get used to hearing "you want moto?" everywhere), cheap, and are generally quite safe. All riders are now required to wear helmets, a rule that is strongly enforced. Make sure the driver supplies you with a helmet. If he doesn't, find another one, as you'll be the one stung for the fine.

Short hops around town shouldn't be more than 20,000 dong, if you go between districts this increases and all the way to the airport around 70,000 dong. Drivers are generally quite friendly and will go slower upon request. They are also not adverse to a bear hug if you are really struggling to hold on to the motorbike. Many of the moto drivers, especially in District 1, speak some English and like many Vietnamese will repay you in a flood of smiles, and probably point out all the sights, if you make a little effort to get to know them.

By taxi

Taxi rates are very reasonable in Da Nang, and scams are less common than in Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, but you're better off going with a reputable company to avoid any hassle.

Mai Linh (mostly green with white lettering, though sometimes green or silver), ☏ +84 511 356 5656.

Vinasun (white with green and red lettering), ☏ +84 511 368 6868. have large fleets in the city and are generally honest and reliable, with meters that start automatically after the taxis have moved about 5 m.

In general, you'll find that Da Nang is a safer and far more laid back city compared to hectic Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City. As the number of tourists rises, of course, things begin to change. That doesn't mean you'll have to walk down the street clutching your bag like you would in bigger cities. Still, it pays to observe some rules of thumb to avoid unnecessary hassles:

Avoid wearing ostentatious jewellery or clothing that flaunts your (comparatively) rich lifestyle.

Carry cash and copies of important papers in a thin wallet rather than in a large purse.

It's safe to leave a rented motorbike outside during the day, but be sure to bring it inside during the night.

While cannabis is fairly common and sold at some bars it's still illegal and possession carries a stiff penalty.

Like other cities in Vietnam, crossing the road can be a challenge, since roads are wide and the traffic never stops. Walk at a predictable pace so motorbikes can swerve around you and try to cross together with locals until you get the hang of it.

Taxi scams

One thing to beware of is the standard taxi scam: When going on a long trip to Ba Na Hills, Hue, or elsewhere, an unscrupulous taxi driver may stop and agree to a very low price for a return journey. Once you reach your destination, he triples or quadruples the price, knowing you have no other options. When you do return to your hotel—parking the car slightly away or out of sight of the main entrance—he locks the doors and demands the price first before letting you go. To avoid getting caught in this kind of situation, stick with taxis from reputable companies such as Mai Linh or Vinasun, and agree a price with them. To play it even safer, take your driver to the hotel reception to confirm the price again and leave the taxi details, including the licence plate number, with hotel reception.