A plan for Yangon

As the country's former capital, Yangon is the largest and most cosmopolitan city in Myanmar, where you can find nightlife, quality international restaurants, and many of the country's museums. The city is an amalgamation of British, Burmese, Chinese, and Indian influences. Well-known for its colonial architecture, which although decaying, remains an almost unique example of a 19th-century British colonial capital in Asia. New skyscrapers began to rise from the 1990s forward as the government began to allow private investment, and with the introduction of liberalising reforms in 2013, many new buildings were constructed and refurbished in the city centre. Since the capital was shifted to Naypyidaw in 2005, former government buildings such as the massive Secretariat Building have benefited from large-scale restoration efforts.

Yangon's former English name, Rangoon, was not the only victim of change; the country's name itself was changed from Burma to Myanmar. To add to the ongoing identity crisis, the city has been stripped of its status as the capital, relocated to a remote new site called Naypyidaw, built from scratch. The flag too has been changed in 2010, replacing the old one, which replaced another one slightly more than a decade earlier.

Read

Our Home in Myanmar: Four Years in Yangon by Jessica Mudditt - An Australian freelance journalist recounts living in Yangon during the country's liberalisation between 2012–2015, working for an English-language newspaper. The author describes with fascination what her life was like, the stories she worked on, and the difficulties created by the Myanmar government for her husband, a Bangladeshi, in light of the beginnings of the Myanmar military's genocide of the Muslim Rohingya people.

Relatively untouched by development compared of other major Southeast Asian cities, the city centre of Yangon is full of historical sights. Yangon is perhaps the best-preserved example of a European colonial capital in Southeast Asia.

Shwedagon Paya

1 Shwedagon Paya (A taxi from city centre costs 2,500-3,000 kyat. Taxis are available for the return trip at the bottom of the main entrance. Can also take bus 204, 100 kyat. Catch this on Shwe Dagon Pagoda Rd across from the public toilets just as you cross the overpass. From China Town it's a 30-min walk (2.5 km).). Daily, 06:30-22:00. The pagoda opens at 05:00 but generally tourists are not allowed in until 06:30. 10,000 kyat. Ticket booths are at the top end of the flights of steps on all entrances. If you get in at 05:00 and get out by 06:00 you'll probably escape paying the fee (but risk not being allowed in). Tickets are valid for one day only (not a 24-hour period) and must be retained throughout your visit. A sticker has to be displayed on your clothes to identify you as having a valid ticket, but it is unusable the next day as another colour is used. ATMs available at the platform. (updated Feb 2022)

The Shwedagon Pagoda or Paya is the most important religious site in Myanmar. The pagoda stands on the top of Singuttara Hill, and, according to legend, that spot has been sacred since the beginning of time, just before our present world was created. At that time, five lotus buds popped up on the hill, each bud signifying the five Buddhas who would appear in the world and guide it to Nirvana. Gautama, the Buddha as we know him, is the fourth of these five (Maitreya, the fifth, will announce the end of the world with his appearance) and, according to the legend, two brothers brought eight hairs of the Buddha to be enshrined in this sacred location, inaugurating the Shwedagon Pagoda. Whatever the truth of the legend, verifiable history records a pagoda at the site since the 6th century CE. Built and rebuilt, gilded and regilded, almost nothing in the pagoda is likely to be old, except whatever is hidden deep inside the stupa. An 18th-century earthquake destroyed the upper half of the pagoda spire and many buildings. Burmese Buddhists are practical people who constantly build and rebuild pagodas for merit.

1 Bogyoke Aung San Stadium, Zoological Garden Road (take bus to stop York Lan, north of Yangon Central Railway Station).

Dallah Ferry (Pansodan Rd Jetty across from the Strand Hotel). To Dallah, a small village across the river from Yangon, an interesting ferry ride. The ride is brief, but filled with all the craziness of a Burmese ferry: you can buy freshly sliced watermelon, cheroots, cigarettes, tea, all kinds of interesting-looking food, various knick-knacks from the many vendors who pack the ferry. The ferry ride seems more like a floating market than a means of transportation. Combine the ride with a trip to Twante for a half- or full-day trip. There is a pagoda at Dallah worth a visit, but otherwise the village is not really a destination. 4,000 kyat roundtrip fare for foreigners.. (updated Feb 2016)

2 Ferris Wheel, Kabar Aye Pagoda Rd (Inya Lakeshore eastside).

3 Kokkine Swimming Club, Kokkaing Swimming Club Lane (take bus to stop 'Har Mit Tic').

4 Kyaikkasan Grounds, South Race Course Rd (near the National Library). A sportfield.

Market Tour and Cooking Demonstration (Governor’s Residence Hotel). The cooking demonstration takes place upstairs in the hotel's Mindon Lounge where you will learn to prepare a traditional Burmese salad. US$60 for a half-day tour including lunch (US$40 excluding lunch), excluding drinks.

5 National Swimming Pool, U Wisara Road.

6 National Theatre, Myoma Kyaung St.

7 Thamada Cinema, Alan Pya Pagoda St (take bus to Stop York Lan).

8 Thein Byu Sport Ground, Kan Yeik Tha Rd (take a bus to Stop Masar Set).

9 Thuwana National Stadium (Thuwunna Indoor Stadium), Wai Za Yan Tar Rd (Hnin Si Gone Railway Station Northeast ~700 m).

Cinemas – There are a number of cinemas that play new release English movies. Local cinemas cost only a few dollars and are usually in a good condition but the best cinema might be in Myanmar plaza. remember to stand in silence for the national anthem.

10 Hlawga National Park (လှော်ကားအမျိုးသားဥယျာဉ်). 09:00-17:00 daily. Big wildlife area along with mini zoo and elephant and safari rides. (updated Aug 2020)

Yangon has seen an explosion of restaurants in the last ten years and a wide selection of international cuisines is available: French, Italian, Japanese, Thai and Korean. Local cuisine reflects the multi-ethnic nature of the city and the country. Along with Bamar food, there are a large number of Indian and Chinese restaurants as well as a few places specializing in ethnic Shan food. Fast food restaurants (usually with table service) serving burgers and pizza, and a few cafes complete the scene.

The cost of food ranges considerably. Restaurants and cafes in hotels and the airport charge prices that are normal in Western countries, yet at a streetside stall a whole meal costs 500–2,000 kyat.

Biryani, a rice and meat dish with roots in the Mughal Empire, is a speciality and there are many biryani restaurants (dan-PAO-sain in Burmese) in the city centre, especially along Anawratha Rd. The three main competing restaurant chains (all halal, but vegetarian biryani is usually available) are Yuzana, KSS (Kyet Shar Soon), and Nilar.

Budget

Street Food: Anawratha Rd and Mahabandoola Rd are dotted with food stalls, but Yangon street ambiance is not conducive to al fresco eating. Betel-nut spitting pedestrians do not add to the ambience either. Myanmar street food is mostly deep fried, and often served in a puddle of oil. Dishes are washed at the roadside "dunk" style, without soap and without running water. The green tea is free but before drinking from the cups pour some tea, swill it, empty it on the street and then pour yourself the cup of tea. Alternatively, use the provided tissue at the table as the locals do. There are many buffet-style street stalls where you point at the food to order.

Street vendors sell samosas, onion balls, and other Indian snacks around Anawratha St between Sule Paya Rd and Shwe Bontha St in central Yangon for under 200 kyat. Many restaurants and food stalls close as early as 20:00 or 21:00. It is best go around 19:00.

999 Shan Noodle Shop, 130 34th St. Tiny snack joint with very good noodle dishes. The staff will play harmless entertaining tricks on your table such as flipping the pepper bottle if you look friendly. Around 2,000 kyat. (updated Jul 2019)

Nightlife in Yangon is split between local bars or "beer stations" as they are called which close early (around 21:00-00:00), but offer drinks at bargain prices (about 800 kyat for a pint glass of Myanmar Beer, local whiskies cost 2,000 kyat a glass). Expect to get a lot of attention when going to the local bars, since theses places are not frequented by foreigners. Drinking is not culturally acceptable for women in Burma, so don't expect to pick up any girls except in nightclubs and Western-style venues, local bars are places where men meet to talk and chew betel nut (very popular in Myanmar).

In stark contrast to local bars are the trendy cocktail bars and nightclubs that are springing up in the more modern areas of town, this is where you will find the expatiates and wealthy Westernized locals. Drinks are expensive and the DJs are unreliable- but expect a more or less Western experience, girls drink, most venues are LGBT friendly and all "the people" are there.

Bars

Asia (A5IA), nicely decorated, across from Ko San

Ko San Double Happiness Bar, cheap and friendly on 19th Street

Port Autonomy, very trendy and in a new location, but expensive by Yangon standards

7 Joint Bar. One of the first bars in the city and still popular. (updated Oct 2019)

Nightclubs

Nightclubs in Yangon are not world famous and the music is often variable. Many upmarket discos and nightclubs can get quite lively, with locals eager to socialise with foreigners.

The Music Club (at the Park Royal Hotel (admission, US$6, hotel guests, free); Paddy O'Malley's (Sedona Hotel, admission, US$5, including one drink).

Fuse nightclub

Pioneer nightclub, mostly rich local kids but has reliable DJs, always popular. Go with four people and buy an 80k package that includes a liter of vodka. Security is tight.

Level 2 nightclub, probably has the best DJs in the city, frequent events. Attached to the trendy Alchemy Bar.

1 Aung Zha Bridge (take Hlaing River Rd across the river). Over Hlaing River connect Insein township with Hlaing Thar Yar township

2 Bayint Naung Bridge, Dagon Township. Over Hlaing River

3 Maha Bandula Bridge, Maha Bandula Rd, Dagon. A bridge over Ngamoeyeik Creek

4 Nga Moe Yeik Bridge, Upper Pazundaung Rd connect with Ayer Wun Main Rd. A bridge over Ngamoeyeik Creek

5 Pun Hlaing River Bridge (Hlaing Thar Yar township).

The easiest way to get around the city is by taxi and Yangon is the city where Toyotas come to live out the rest of their days. Plenty of old white Toyota Corolla taxis ply the streets and will pull over if you stick your hand out. Genuine taxis have red licence plates, carry a laminated green slip, and a large-print taxi driver identification card on the dashboard of the car, but all taxis are reliable. Be warned though that around lunchtime and late at night, it may be hard to hail one. Taxis are always available outside the bigger hotels, on Sule Pagoda Rd, outside Cafe Aroma, and, during the day, outside the south entrance to the Shwedagon Pagoda. Away from the city centre, for example, near the budget hotels in Pazundaung Township, you may have to wait a bit before a taxi shows up and it may be easier to ask your hotel to call one for you. If you're travelling in the early hours (for example, to catch a 04:00 train or flight), arrange one with your hotel the previous evening. You will always, at all hours, find a taxi outside the Central Hotel on Bogoyoke Aung San Rd.

Despite widespread poverty, Yangon is one of the safest big cities in the world. Most people, including single females, will not have any problems roaming the streets alone at night, and carrying large amounts of cash rarely poses a problem. Crimes against tourists are taken very seriously by the military government and punishment is often disproportionately severe. This, in addition to the strong Buddhist culture in the population, means that Yangon's crime rate is lower than the likes of Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok. Violent crime is especially rare. However, little crime does not mean no crime, and there have been isolated incidents involving tourists, so it is best to take normal big city precautions like avoiding lonely areas at night and always being aware of your valuables. As with everywhere else in the world, there is no substitute for common sense.

Prostitution and drug trafficking are both illegal in Myanmar. Drug trafficking in particular carries severe penalties, including the death penalty.

Scams

A increasingly common scam involved an overly friendly local approaching a tourist (often near Sule Pagoda or the park next to it, or outside Shwe Dagon pagoda) and offering to take them around the city. The tourist is then taken to an isolated area (often across the river to Dala township) where a group of men appear and demand huge amounts of money and take the tourist to an ATM where they are forced to make a withdrawal.

It can be difficult to separate these men from the more common tour guide who will introduce himself and try to overcharge you for short tours.

Taxi drivers at the airport and au minglar bus station are known to badly overcharge people who have just arrived and may lie about the exchange rate of the Myanmar kyat. Using Grab taxi is safer and often cheaper for tourists.