A plan for Ubud

While Ubud seems to outsiders like one small town, it is in fact fourteen villages, each run by its own banjar (village committee). Ubud has grown rapidly, and some central parts are creaking under the strain of coping with the number of visitors. That said, most development is sympathetic to the zeitgeist, if not designed specifically in the local style. Growth continues apace, but there are still terraced rice fields along the rivers, and away from the town centre, regular, quiet village life carries on relatively undisturbed.

History

In many ways, the history of the Ubud area (not so much the modern day town) is the history of Bali.

Ubud has a known history back to the eighth century, when the Javanese Buddhist priest Rsi Marhandya came to Bali from Java, and meditated at the confluence of the two Wos rivers at Campuan, just west of the modern day town centre. A shrine was established and later expanded by Nirartha, the Javanese priest who is regarded as the founder of Bali's religious practices and rituals as we know them today. At this time the area was a centre of natural medicine and healing, and that is how the name Ubud originated: Ubad is ancient Balinese for medicine.

Further temples and monasteries were established over the next 400 years or so. The temple complex at Gunung Kawi, and the cave temples at Goa Gajah (just east and northeast of Ubud), are architectural remains from this period. Many of the dances, drama and rituals still practised in Ubud today, originated at this time. King Airlangga ruled all of Java and Bali in this era, and his seat of government was located in what is now the village of Batuan, just southeast of Ubud.

The Javanese Majapahit kingdom conquered Bali in 1343, and the key final victory was against the Pejeng Dynasty centred at Bedulu, just to the east of Ubud. A great flowering of Balinese culture followed, and the ancestry of Ubud's current day aristocratic families can be traced back to this period. In the sixteenth Century, there was a total transplantation of the Majapahit Kingdom to Bali as the Islamisation of Java forced them eastwards. Power flip-flopped between various dynasties and feudal lords, but the Ubud area remained a very important cog in the various regencies which ruled the island.

Ubud is so crammed with attractions it can almost seem like a visual assault at times. Try to make sure you allocate at least a week for your visit here, and take your time to explore properly. Visitors who jump up to Ubud for just two or three days of their Bali holiday, stand little chance of understanding much of what is going on around them.

The key historical sites are located out of town, some as far as 20 km away, and you might find it worthwhile joining a tour to visit these. If you do visit attractions such as Goa Gajah, Gunung Kawi, Pura Kehen and Tirta Empul under your own steam, try to find a knowledgeable guide when you get there. Whilst you will certainly appreciate the beauty of these places, their cultural and spiritual significance may be lost without a guide.

Temples and historical sites

1 Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave), Jalan Goa Gajah (about an hour walk from Ubud palace with partly unfriendly-pedestrian roads). Daily 08:00-17:00. The centerpiece here is a cave dating back to the 9th century, the entrance to which is an ornately carved demon's mouth. Inside are some fragmentary lingam and yoni statues, as well as a statue of Ganesha. Large, carved guards stand around pools near the entrance, and a little path leads to a waterfall, rice fields, and some Buddhist stupa fragments. Some parts of the Goa Gajah complex were not excavated until the 1950s. Nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 30-60 min visit without guide. Unclear if dirt path to rice fields and elephant river is usable/maintained. Adults Rp 50.000, Kids Rp 25.000 including sarong. (updated May 2024)

As a centre of the arts, Ubud has dance and shadow puppet performances every night. There are also plenty of spas for resynchronising your chakras, and all manner of spiritual classes and treatments, some distinctly less genuine than others.

Walking

1 Campuhan Ridge Walk. Campuhan Ridge Walk begins beside the Pura Gunung Lebah and follows a gently undulating 2 km paved ridge trail. This walk was recommended in the early 21st century but as of 2026 the views have sadly been ruined by development. Still, it is a nice enough walk. The best way to do it is to take a Grab to Bankiang Sidem, the village on the northern end of the walk. This way, you'll be walking downhill 2km back into central Ubud. Note: a taxi mafia controls Bankiang Sidem and prevents Grabs and outside taxis from picking up passengers there. They can still drop off, however. (updated Jul 2026)

Sari Organik Walk. The Sari Organik Walk is an easy stroll through rice fields immediately north of central Ubud. Passing small cafés, traditional farms and coconut palms, it offers a peaceful escape from the busy streets and is especially pleasant early in the morning or around sunset. (updated Jul 2026)

2 Kajeng Rice Field Walk. This pleasant walk begins near Jalan Kajeng and quickly leaves central Ubud behind, passing rice fields, small cafés and traditional homes. It is quieter than the Campuhan Ridge Walk and offers a glimpse of everyday village life. (updated Jul 2026)

3 Sweet Orange Walk. The Sweet Orange Walk is even better than the Campuhan Ridge Walk was before it was ruined by development. It follows narrow paths through rice fields just north of central Ubud, passing cafés, rice fields, homestays and art studios. It is a relaxing walk suitable for most visitors. Loop back into central Ubud by turning onto Jalan Kajeng and browse its art and trinket stalls. (updated Jul 2026)

Art courses

4 Bali Center for Artistic Creativity (BCAC) (Nyoman Art Gallery), Jl Raya Petulu, ☏ +62 361 970034, brcerobert@yahoo.com. Art studio nestled in beautiful grounds and galleries offering art classes from beginners to teachers, and internationally accredited courses run by Bruce Sherratt.

Cooking classes

5 Payuk Bali Home Cooking Class, Banjar Laplapan Ubud Bali, ☏ +62 361 8987854, info@payukbali.com. Traditional Balinese cooking such as sate lilit, Balinese salad, and nasi kuning.

Ubud has one of Indonesia's most diverse dining scenes, ranging from inexpensive local warungs serving traditional Balinese dishes to internationally acclaimed fine-dining restaurants. Vegetarian, vegan and organic cafés are especially well represented, but excellent Indonesian, Japanese, Italian, Mexican, Thai and Middle Eastern cuisine can all be found within walking distance of the town centre. Note that, unlike in less-touristy places in Bali, listed prices do not include 10% tax and 6-7% service charge, which are added to the final bill (known as plus plus).

Budget

Ubud has moved more upmarket in recent decades, so truly cheap meals are hard to find. But there is still plenty of cheap, good food at good prices.

1 Bubu Warung, Jl Penestanan Kelod, bubus_annasari@yahoo.co.id. Daily 08:00-22:00. Healthy and delicious Balinese cuisine with plenty of choices on the menu. If you have any special requests, Ibu Made will be happy to cater for you.

2 Dewa Warung, Jl Gootama 13. Daily 10:00-21:00. Dewa's is one of the better cheap places to eat in town. Serves all the usual Balinese and Indonesian dishes. Most mains Rp24,000 - 36,000.

3 Warung Babi Guling Ibu Oka 1, Jl Suweta (around 200 m north of the Jl Raya Ubud-Jl Suweta-Monkey Forest Rd crossroads turn right into a side street and follow a small gang about 100 m ahead; there are lots of signs). Daily 11:00-15:00. A Bali culinary experience. The babi guling (spit-roasted pig) here is world-famous, and this humble eating place is virtually a place of pilgrimage. The roast pork is served with rice and spiced veggies, order the special (Rp55,000) to get a bit of everything — including offal and blood sausage. There are normal tables and chairs but you can also sit on the floor at low tables inside the bale (pavilion). From Rp25,000.

4 Warung Babi Guling Ibu Oka 2, Jl. Raya Mas No.191, Mas (on the main Teges-Sukawati road on the route between Ubud and the airport), ☏ +62 361 976345. Unlike the original, where comfort and appearance are not strong points, this outlet is a two-storey restaurant which is spotless, airy and comfortable.

Ubud is emphatically not party town: there are a few places for a quiet drink, but the strictly enforced local regulation that all live performances and loud music must end by 22:30 puts a bit of a clamp on the local nightlife. More often than not, visitors have a quiet drink with their evening meal, and call it a night.

Pubs

1 The Melting Pot Game Room and Pub, Jl. Pengosekan (across from The Pond restaurant and behind Delta Dewata), ☏ +62 815 7689113. 11:00 till last man out. Pool hall and games room with full bar. Every nation is represented with a flag and customers are encouraged to sign their country’s flag. Food, music, table tennis, darts, foosball, video games, pool tables, and a general atmosphere make it a place where locals, ex-pats, and tourists often congregate. 8 Ball tournaments every Tuesday night and 10 ball tournaments on Fridays are open to all.

Coffee shops

2 Bali Pulina, Jl. Raya Pujung Kaja, Sebatu, Tegallalang, ☏ +62 811 394 462. 08:00-17:00. Sprawling venue with lush, tropical vegetation, coffee and tea tastings, also a zipline through the foliage. Try Kopi Luwak. (updated Aug 2022)

3 Seniman Coffee Studio, Jl. Sri Wedari No.5, Banjar Taman Kelod, ☏ +62 812 833 86641. 07:30-22:00. A popular retro cafe that serves a variety of selected coffees & food from several local regions. (updated Aug 2022)

4 Fold, Jl. Raya Pengosekan No.63 X, ☏ +62881037140750. 07:00-22:00 daily. This cafe-bakery-pizza place-restaurant has the best barista coffee in Ubud. They also have the excellent, local Kura Kura beer on tap. (updated Aug 2026)

Central Ubud can be covered on foot, but you will need some form of transport to explore the extended vicinity.

Central Ubud is overrun with tourists and touts, and traffic is terrible—cars are frequently stuck in traffic, pedestrians have to dodge motorcycles, and everyone has to deal with the noise and smell from so many vehicles in a small area. The nearby villages are much quieter. The sidewalks are often blocked by motorbikes, or a collapsed section necessitates a step off the sidewalk potentially placing you in the path of traffic. That traffic could be a tricycle or a truck, so keep your wits about you.

By bemo

Bemos ply the main routes in and around Ubud, and the main stop and gathering point is Ubud market at the junction of Jl Monkey Forest and Jl Raya Ubud. Most bemos stop running in the late afternoon, and are always more frequent in the morning.

By taxi

No metered taxis operate in Ubud, and any you see will be dropping off passengers from further afield.

You may however encounter many locals offering a taxi, who sometimes are very persistent. These are not actual taxis, but "local cars" (see below).

If you do not need a taxi, it's best to avoid eye contact with those offering a ride, as they may follow you with offers of tours of the area, etc. If you are continually being harassed, a polite "no thank you" (or "tidak terima kasih", the Indonesian equivalent) may work.

By local car

Most local transport comes in the form of SUVs or minivans that can be hired with a driver for specific trips. Look for the circular yellow "E" logo on the windshield certifying them as Ubud Transport Association members. You can (and should) haggle a bit over the price, and pay less than for the equivalent journey in a metered taxi. A short trip should be less than Rp20,000, and drivers will be glad to wait for you for a return fare.

Also, there are guys on motorbikes who will also offer bike rides (ojek) and are about half the price of those in a car.

By hotel car

Many hotels are out of town, and are happy to offer regular, complimentary drop-off and pick-up services to central Ubud. Expect to pay higher than taxi prices if you are intending to go further afield.

Ubud is a safe town to visit and few problems will ever be encountered.

Police Station, Jl Raya Andong (just east of the town centre. Follow Jl Raya Ubud east to the end, turn north and the police station is on your right hand side.), ☏ +62 361 975316.

Be wary around the monkeys that occupy the Monkey Forest. They are experts at stealing possessions like glasses, earrings, cameras and even handbags, and have been known to attack people that are carrying food. Rabies is also a concern in Bali, and the likelihood is that these monkeys could carry the disease. No matter how cute they look, feeding them is just asking for trouble.

Some of the scruffier money exchange booths are manned by scammers, as is the case elsewhere in Bali. They will encourage you to change more money by claiming to offer a higher rate. At first the transaction will proceed as normal, except they do not ask for your passport. They count out the rupiah, then you count it, then inexplicably, they will count it again, and half the notes will "disappear" in the process! This may be the best magic show in all of Bali. To avoid this scam, only change money at exchange offices connected to a bank.