A plan for Toulouse

The city was a Roman settlement, "Tolosa", and the smaller inner streets still follow the ancient layout. After Rome fell, it became capital of a Visigoth kingdom, but the region was roiled by secular, dynastic and religious wars, such as those against the Cathar heretics. The Dominican Order was founded in the city in 1216 to win back the Cathars to orthodoxy by peaceful preaching, but when that didn't work the Pope launched a crusade and massacre. Toulouse and its realm thereby lost independence and in 1271 were annexed to the Kingdom of France.

In the fourteenth century, Toulouse was devastated by pogroms, the Black Death, famine, and war. In the fifteenth century, it became wealthy from its monopoly on "pastel," a blue pigment extracted from woad plants, only to slump again when the monopoly was broken by indigo imports from India. It suffered several fires, the worst in 1463, so it was re-built in brick rather than wood. An 18th-century boom led to a spate of construction in pink terracotta brick, giving rise to its nickname La ville rose. The university flourished: founded in 1229, it's one of the oldest in the world, and now has over 100,000 students. Fermat pondered his theorems here in between his legal work. On 10 April 1814, Toulouse saw the last battle of the forces led by Wellington out of Spain against Napoleon – neither side was aware that Napoleon had already surrendered. Marshal Soult held the city for a day then fled.

City centre

The old centre of Toulouse is east of the River Garonne: it's compact and most places of interest can easily be visited on foot. It's bounded to the east and north by Bvd Lazare Carnot / Bvd de Strasbourg, and to the south by the cathedral, Rue Metz and Pont Neuf.

1 Basilique Saint-Sernin, 7 Place St-Sernin (Metro: Jean-Jaurès), ☏ +33 5 6121 8045. A red-brick church from the 11–12th century, it may well be the largest Romanesque construction in the world, partly because it was an important stopover on the pilgrimage to Santiago. Huge as it is, it's the only remnant of the former Abbey of Saint-Sernin. Notable features are the great bell-tower, the gates, the "ambulatory" passage, and the thunderous organ. In the 19th century the church was "restored" by the famous French architect Viollet-le-Duc: some of his re-imaginings of the Middle Ages are now being undone. Saint Sernin or Saturnin (d 257) was one of a group sent from Rome to Christianise 3rd century Gaul; he was martyred by being dragged to death by a bull. (updated Aug 2023)

2 Saint Raymond Museum (Musée Saint-Raymond), Place Saint-Sernin (next to Basilica Saint-Sernin, Metro: Jeanne-d’Arc), ☏ +33 5 6122 3144. Tue–Sun 10:00–18:00. An archaeological museum with Roman artefacts from around Toulouse as well as the largest collection of Roman busts found in France. The site in ancient times was a necropolis then a hospital for pilgrims on the road to Santiago. The present building is from 1523 and became a museum in 1892. Adult €5, conc €3. (updated Aug 2023)

3 Notre-Dame de la Daurade, 1 Place de la Daurade (Metro: Esquirol), ☏ +33 5 6121 3832. Daily 09:00–18:00. This church was founded in 410 AD as a pagan temple to Apollo but demolished in 1761. The present neoclassical building was completed in 1883 and restored in 2017–19. (updated Aug 2023)

What's on? For local events read La Dépêche du Midi or Intramuros, or watch TV Sud or the local section of France 3.

Take a walk along the river quays.

Théâtre du Capitole hosts the opera house and orchestra, Box Office +33 5 6163 1313.

1 Canal du Midi is the eastern and more interesting section of the "Canal des Deux Mers", and it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It starts from the River Garonne to the northwest, circling city centre so its first few km are walkable. But the best sections are further out, as it climbs the hillside then descends through Carcassonne and Beziers towards Étang de Thau on the Med. So you probably want a bike or canal barge to explore it.

Rent a bike: see "Get around".

Rugby Union: 2 Stade Toulousain ("Les rouges et noirs") play Rugby Union in the French Top 14. They're seldom out of the top places and so qualify for European tournaments – they've won the European Rugby Champions Cup a record four times. Their home ground is Stade Ernest Wallon, but big matches are often played at the Stadium de Toulouse.

Rugby League: Toulouse Olympique or TO XIII play in the English RL system Feb–Oct. They were promoted in 2025 and now play in Super League, the top tier. TO XIII share Stade des Sept Deniers (aka Stade Ernest-Wallon). Their second-string team Toulouse Olympique Broncos play Oct-Mar in the French top tier Super XIII at Stade de Minimes.

Football: Toulouse FC play soccer in Ligue 1, the top tier. Their home ground is 3 Stadium de Toulouse (capacity 33,000, formerly "Stadium Municipal") on the river island 1 km south of city centre.

Golf: a dozen courses around the city, such as Golf de Toulouse 5 km south.

4 La Grainerie, 61 Rue Saint-Jean, Balma (5 km east of centre), ☏ +33 5 6124 3391. Performing arts theatre with a special interest in circus. (updated Aug 2023)

5 L'Usine, 6 Impasse Marcel Paul, Tournefeuille, ☏ +33 5 6107 4518. Theatre and artists collective. (updated Aug 2023)

La Kermesse is a music festival at the Pony Club near the airport, next held 16–19 Aug 2023.

Piano Jacobins is next held 6–29 Sept 2023.

Local specialities are:

Duck, for instance canard confit (roast duck leg) or canard foie gras (duck liver pate).

Cassoulet is a stew made with white beans, meat (such as Toulouse sausage), and pork skin.

Violets used to make candy.

The areas around Place du Capitole, Bvd de Strasbourg and Place St Georges are lined with cafes and restaurants.

Budget

1 L'oasis, 41 Rue Pargaminières. 11:00–02:00 (–03:00 Sat, 11:30–01:00 Sun). This Turkish place is quite popular with students, and it's not hard to see why when they serve a generous portion of good food at low prices. €7–10. (updated Nov 2023)

2 Les Halles Victor Hugo, Place Victor Hugo. Tue–Sun 08:00–13:30. The ground floor is a big food market. Upstairs are five little restaurants open until 15:00, with a string more on the street east. (updated Aug 2023)

Le Gout en Train, 5 Bis Rue Caussette (south side of Les Halles Victor Hugo), ☏ +33 5 6230 0808. Mon–Fri 11:00–14:00. The best of the cluster around the market, with home-style cuisine. (updated Aug 2023)

Restaurant Le May, 4 Rue du May (50 m west of Musée du Vieux Toulouse), ☏ +33 5 6123 9876. Mon–Sat 12:00–14:00, 20:00–23:00. Good value home-style cuisine at this cosy brick-lined bistro. French cuisine. (updated Aug 2023)

Le Safran, 8 Rue de la Bourse (block north of Hôtel d'Assézat, Metro: Esquirol), ☏ +33 6 8223 8702. Thu–Sat 12:00–19:00. Simple authentic vegetarian Moroccan dishes, charming boss. (updated Aug 2023)

3 Au Gascon, 9 Rue des Jacobins (Metro: Capitole), ☏ +33 5 6121 6716. Mon–Sat 11:30–14:00, 19:00–22:00. Cuisine of Gascony, the southwest corner of France. Great value for the quality. (updated Aug 2023)

4 Caminito, 3 Rue des Gestes (Metro: Capitole), ☏ +33 5 6123 5174. Mon–Sat 12:00–15:00, 19:00–23:00. Authentic Argentinian cuisine such as empanadas in a friendly atmosphere. (updated Aug 2023)

5 Chez nous les Libanais, 6 Rue Jean Suau (Metro: Esquirol), ☏ +33 7 6703 9603. Daily 12:00–23:30. East Med staples such as falafel, kebabs and shwarma, in an authentically chaotic ambiance. Cash only. (updated Aug 2023)

The George and Dragon is a lively British-style pub with TV sport. It's at 1 Place de Peyrou 150 m west of the Basilica.

Hopscotch, 3 Rue Baour Lormian (block south of Capitole). Tue–Sat 16:00–02:00, Sun Mon 16:00–00:00. Scots-themed pub with food, micro-brewery and huge selection of whisky. (updated Aug 2023)

The Classroom is an Irish pub at 42 Rue Pargaminières 300 m west of Capitole.

1 La Beer Fabrique, 12 Ave Etienne Billières, ☏ +33 6 9535 1917. Brewery organising classes where you brew your own. (updated Aug 2023)

2 Le Biergarten, 60 Grand Rue Saint-Michel (Metro: Saint-Michel Marcel Langer), ☏ +33 5 6173 8377. Tue–Sat 17:00–02:00, Sun Mon 17:00–00:00. Just what you need to enjoy the local ambiance, a trad Bavarian beer garden. (updated Aug 2023)

The Botanist is an English-style alehouse with good grub. It's at 33 Bvd Maréchal Leclerc south flank of the Japanese Garden, open M–F 09:00–02:00, Sa 15:00–03:00, Su 12:00–02:00.

Distilleries: Maison Victors or Straw Bale Distillery make pink Pastis. They're in Vacquiers 20 km north, tours by arrangement.

Bear Brothers 10 km south in Auzeville make vodka, gin, and raw spirits for liqueur manufacturers.

Black Mountain 10 km west past the airport make Occitan Whisky.

Toulouse is a big city, but the historical centre is compact, between the Garonne River and Metro B Line. You can walk to most attractions.

Bus, tram, metro lines and cable car are operated by Tisseo. Tram T1 starts downtown at Palais de Justice, crosses the river west to Arènes interchange, then runs north to Beauzelle and the MEETT – get off in Blagnac for the airport bus. (Tram 2 is axed.) Metro line A runs southwest to northeast, from the University through Arènes and the railway station. Metro line B runs north–south, passing the main railway station and Palais de Justice. There is a suburban train west to Colomiers and Arènes which can be taken with a Tisseo fare. Buses run along all the main streets but don't come into the pedestrianised core of the city, except the free city-centre shuttle (M–Sa) – no bus stops for this one, just wave at the driver.

A single ticket paid on the bus costs €2.50 in Jan 2025. A ticket from a machine or kiosk for any Tisseo transport is €1.80, a book of 10 is €15.40 and a one-day pass is €6.90. Validate your ticket on boarding, and it's good for transfers within one hour (within 90 min to and from the airport.)

Metro services run late at night but there is also an extensive night bus network

Taxi operators include Taxi Toulouse (+33 5 6120 9000) and Capitole (+33 5 3425 0250). Book ahead to avoid long waits for a ride.

Bike rental is organised by Town Hall. First you need to buy a ticket at velo.toulouse.fr or at a bike station. A one-day ticket is €1.20 and a 7-day pass is €5, longer hires are available. You have unlimited journeys, for no extra charge for the first 30 min, then the meter starts ticking.

Bike lanes The city has a dense network of bike lanes and bicycle-friendly streets with little motorized traffic. A lot of people cycle and it is generally very safe and enjoyable to move in the city by bike. Along the Canal du Midi there is a pleasant bike lane connecting important locations like the center and the university campus.

Avoid going downtown with a car as parking is seriously limited and many streets are closed to motorized traffic. Try using a suburban, metro or tram station as a park-and-ride.