A plan for Ottawa

History

Ottawa started as a humble lumber town called Bytown, named after Colonel John By of the Royal Engineers who oversaw the construction of the Rideau Canal (now a UNESCO World Heritage site which doubles as a giant skating rink in the winter), much of which was done by hand between 1826 and 1832. Lumber mills were built along the Ottawa River in the mid-19th century, and brought employment and wealth to the growing population. The centre of action then, as now, was the Byward Market. While it is still the centre of the city's nightlife, it has changed appreciably from the rough–and–tumble early days of brothels and taverns.

In 1857, Ottawa was chosen (in the legend by Queen Victoria, really on the advice of Canadian politicians) as the capital of Canada. The choice was made to avoid a controversy, because it sidestepped the rivalry between Toronto and Montreal (then, as now, Canada's largest cities). But the new capital was still a tiny outpost in the middle of nothing much — an American newspaper famously commented that it was impregnable, as any invaders would get lost in the woods looking for it.

Unlike many federal capitals such as Canberra in Australia or Washington, D.C. in the United States, Ottawa is not part of a special federal district. There is an official National Capital Region containing Ottawa, Gatineau, Quebec across the Ottawa river, and surrounding areas in both provinces. However it is not a separate administration; the two cities have just regular municipal governments and are parts of their respective provinces. Each has its own Wikivoyage article.

During the latter half of the 19th century, the telephone was demonstrated to the Canadian public for the first time here and the city was electrified. The first electric streetcar service was started in 1891. A menu from 1892 states that, "the first instance in the entire world of an entire meal being cooked by Electricity" was in Ottawa.

Parliament Hill

The primary attraction for most visitors is 1 Parliament Hill. Parliament Hill is in the middle of downtown Ottawa, overlooking the Ottawa River. Not only is the building a fine example of the Gothic revival style, it makes an excellent starting point to visit all other points of interest in the area.

The Changing of the Guard takes place daily on the lawns of Parliament at 9AM from late June to late August. The Governor General's Foot Guards can also be seen at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and at Rideau Hall.

Tours of the building are available daily with multiple tours (in English and French) available at staggered times throughout the day. If you have a group of greater than 10 people, you must make a reservation in advance by reserving online or by calling the reservations office at +1 613-996-0896. The admission is free, but you need tickets (one for the House of Commons at West Block, one for the Senate at the Senate of Canada Building) which you get online at visit.parl.ca. There is also a free 45-minute immersive experience that can be booked on the same official booking website.

The Centre Block and the Peace Tower are closed for renovation, and are expected to remain closed until 2031.

Tour guides take you through the House of Commons Chamber or the Senate Chamber and explain the history, roles and architecture of the respective buildings. Each tours lasts about 45 min and free same-day tickets can be booked online at visit.parl.ca depending on availability. Keep the order confirmation number, which can be used in lieu of tickets if they are never received by email.

If there are no more tickets available, or you have to wait for your time, a fine self-guided walking tour around the grounds of Parliament Hill will keep you busy. Free booklets are available at the Capital Information Kiosk at 90 Wellington St.

One of the nicer, unexpected views, looking from the bottom up, can be accessed at the back of the Parliament Buildings—that vantage point also provides a river view of the Canadian Museum of History, across the river in downtown Gatineau (the former city of Hull).

Behind the Parliament Buildings at sunset is a sight to remember. You can walk by the Rideau Canal locks (at the east corner) and visit the Bytown Museum at the level of the canal.

There are walking tours to introduce you to the capital area.

Ottawa Walking Tours offers historical guided walks of Ottawa's downtown core with special stops at areas of historical significance. Tours acquaint guests with the history of the city and allow visitors to learn more about Ottawa’s history, architecture and colourful political characters. Tours are offered year-round and reservations are required. For more information, call ☏ +1 613-799-1774.

The Haunted Walk of Ottawa offers tours focusing on Ottawa's infamous haunts and darker history. Hear tales of hauntings at some of Ottawa's most well known locations, including the Fairmont Chateau Laurier, Bytown Museum and the Ottawa Jail Hostel. Cloaked guides lead guests through the city streets by lantern light-the perfect atmosphere for a good ghost story. Tours run year-round, rain or shine. Reservations are strongly recommended. For more information, call ☏ +1 613-232-0344.

Cinema, Music and Theater

Ottawa has many movie theatres to choose from, but there are also a few that specialize in "foreign" films (i.e., not American), early releases, old returning films and specialty films. The Mayfair Theatre is at 1074 Bank St. near Sunnyside. In addition, the Canadian Film Institute screens films at several venues for the specialist film crowd.

Ottawa has lots of live entertainment, including music and theater from small shows to large productions.

1 The National Arts Centre, 1 Elgin St, ☏ +1 613-947-7000, toll-free: +1-866-850-ARTS (2787). Also provides a major venue for dance and orchestral performance.

2 The Great Canadian Theatre Company (GCTC), 1233 Wellington St W (corner of Holland), ☏ +1 613-236-5196, info@gctc.ca.

3 Ottawa Little Theatre, 400 King Edward Ave (one block south of Rideau), ☏ +1 613-233-8948, info@ottawalittletheatre.com.

4 GigSpace, 953 Gladstone Ave (Little Italy), ☏ +1 613-729-0693, info@gigspaceottawa.com. A more intimate jazz and blues venue, away from Downtown's beaten path.

1 BeaverTails, 69 George Street, ☏ +1 613-241-1230, ottawabywardmarket@beavertails.com. Sun-Wed 10AM-8PM, Thu 10AM-11PM, Fri Sat 10AM-midnight. Try the tasty BeaverTail, a fried-dough pastry associated with Ottawa, although a number of places claim to have created it. It's available in sweet and savoury versions, topped with cinnamon, sugar, icing sugar, etc. In the winter, many places will offer it on the canal. During the summer, the only places downtown to offer it are in the Byward Market on George St., and a small counter in a corner of the Canadian Museum of History. There are a variety of toppings and the taste of the beaver tail stands out more with the classic sugar & cinnamon. However, the locals' favourite is the Killaloe Sunrise, a topping of cinnamon sugar and lemon juice. (updated Feb 2017)

Coffee shops are found throughout the city, and include dozens of two specialty chains Second Cup and Starbucks, in addition to the mainstream Tim Horton's (seemingly planted at every intersection). Bridgehead is a fair trade coffee house and can be found at a half dozen or so locations. Try their small double shot lattes, which are significantly better than their competitors'. There are several coffee houses in Little Italy, on Preston Street. One of the most popular, Pasticceria Gelateria Italiana (200 Preston Street, +1 613-594-5303), also houses an award-winning pastry shop. Bar Robo on Somerset St under the Chinatown arch offers locally-roasted coffee during the day, along with fresh croissants and donuts.

Ethnic foods from around the world are available at a wide variety of restaurants and street vendors throughout the city. The Byward Market area has a wide selection of different cuisines; the Chinatown area is along Somerset Street West between Bay and Preston streets (bus 11 from Parliament O-Train Station); Little Italy runs along the length of Preston Street, from Carling Avenue to Albert Street (bus 85 from Primisi O-Train Station).

The most popular bar areas are in the Byward Market, along Wellington Street in Westboro, along both Elgin Street and Bank Street between Somerset and Gladstone in the Centretown area, and further south on Bank. There are pubs and bars scattered throughout the city as well.

You can also take a small trip over the Ottawa river to Gatineau. Bars in both Ottawa and Gatineau close at 2AM (even though the rest of Quebec has a last call of 3AM). Quebec has a lower minimum age to purchase alcohol (18, vs. 19 in Ontario) and sells beer in corner stores. Ottawa police often set up checkpoints near the bridges to catch drunk drivers returning from Quebec after closing time.

Smoking (both traditional and e-cigarettes, also called "vaping") of tobacco or cannabis is not permitted in restaurants and bars, or on patios.

Pubs

Combining the Irish tradition for casual hearty meals, with Quebec’s cinq à sept (“five to seven” - a social gathering in the two hours after leaving work), Ottawa’s many pubs are lively throughout the day, all week long. Several pubs have grown into local chains, while maintaining a character endeared to each neighbourhood.

Clocktower Brewhouse. A microbrewery with two locations. Excellent beer at a good price with a very tasty and well priced menu.

1 Clocktower New Edinburgh, 422 MacKay Street (corner of Beechwood), ☏ +1 613-742-3169, info.mackay@clocktower.ca. Mon-Fri 11:30AM-midnight; Sat 10:30AM-midnight; Sun 10:30AM-11:45PM.

2 Clocktower Westboro, 418 Richmond Road (corner of Berkley), ☏ +1 613-680-5983, info.westboro@clocktower.ca. Mon-Fri 11:30AM-midnight; Sat 10:30AM-midnight; Sun 10:30AM-11:45PM.

3 Pub Italia, 434 1/2 Preston Street (near Dow's Lake and the Experimental Farm), ☏ +1 613-232-2326. Mon 4PM-1AM; Thu-Sat 11AM–1AM; Sun noon-midnight. An Irish/Italian pub with hundreds of bottled beers listed in its "Beer Bible", especially Belgian. Decent pizza and pastas, but other places in Little Italy have better; you're going here for the beer, not the food. Intimate faux Medieval/Gothic décor; a bit strange, but the patio is very nice. (updated Jan 2023)

The Royal Oak. Several cozy locations, serving traditional pub food from lunch into the late evening. (updated Jan 2023)

Public transit

OC Transpo, ☏ +1 613-560-5000. Operates the city's bus service and the O-Train, a light rail system consisting of three lines. (updated Mar 2025) The Confederation Line (Line 1, red in maps), which began service in 2019, runs west-east with an underground segment through the city centre. The Trillium Line (Line 2, green) runs from the south to Limebank. Lines 1 and 2 meet at Bayview station. Line 4 (blue) runs to the airport from South Keys (connecting there to Line 2). The bus rapid transit (BRT) system, called the Transitway, has service as frequent as 1 to 2 minutes at rush hour.

The O-Train Confederation Line runs east-west under the downtown area served by Lyon, Parliament, Rideau and uOttawa O-Train stations. If you are going to the Byward Market, get off at Rideau O-Train Station. To go north-south, take bus route 6 or 7 along Bank Street from either Parliament or Rideau O-Train stations.

OC Transpo has a webpage to look up schedules and maps for all the O-Train and bus routes mentioned above. It also has a Customer Service Centre on the 3rd floor of the Rideau Centre, above the corner of Rideau Street and Colonel By Drive in downtown Ottawa. There are others at major bus stations: Lincoln Fields in the west end, Place d'Orleans and St. Laurent in the east.

Fares

As of March 2025, the cash fare for regular routes is $4.05 for adults and youth (13-64), $3.20 for seniors (65+). Children under 12 ride free. (Fares are 5 cents cheaper if paying by Presto card.) Seniors can ride the OC Transpo system free on Wednesdays and Sundays (except Para Transpo). Payment is by exact change or the Presto card. If you pay cash, get a transfer to act as proof of payment for fare inspection. Your fare allows you to ride any buses and the O-Train for roughly 1½ hours, longer at night. Stop-overs and return trips are permitted.

Ottawa is a very safe place to live and visit, so if you use common sense it is at least as safe as any other city. There are many tourists in the city, especially in summer months, and there are very few incidents of robbery or assault. Exercise caution and common sense after dark or when traveling alone; instances of harassment and (very rarely) unprovoked violence have occurred to locals and travellers alike.

There have been incidents on buses and at transit stations of violence and swarmings/robberies, even during daytime hours. OC Transpo has hired new constables and placed plainclothes security and cameras on select buses and trains to counter the problem. Use common sense, especially when riding at night, every transit station has multiple emergency call boxes. After dark, take extra care in areas near downtown such as Lowertown East, and also Hintonburg, Vanier, Bayshore, Ledbury, Heatherington, Caldwell and South Keys. These neighbourhoods are known to have gang presence and drug problems. (Ledbury, Heatherington, and South Keys have nothing in the way of tourist draws, anyway.) Ottawa is generally very safe, but like any other city it has bad apples.

Ottawa is the fourth coldest capital city by annual average temperature, but it has the second coldest January, only topped by Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. Add to that nearly 3 m (10') of snow per average winter and throw in an ice storm from time to time, winter can be a challenge but locals do a great job of handling it particularly with recreation. Summers are (normally) short, warm and at times hot and humid. Humidity in the summer can make the heat feel unbearable, while humidity in the winter, coupled with wind chills, can make the cold feel very brutal. Dress for the weather and don't forget to cover your head and ears with a warm hat. Ottawa is not a very fashion-minded city, but in winter, everyone throws in the towel.