A plan for Nuremberg

When people think of Nuremberg, they usually think of gingerbread, toys, Christmas, the Reich Party Rally Grounds or the Nuremberg Trials (see World War II in Europe and Holocaust remembrance). But the old town of Nuremberg in the shadow of the towering imperial castle is more than that. Gothic churches, splendid patricians' houses and romantic corners and spots. An atmosphere of lively co-existence between medieval and modern, between the past and the present, prevails in Nuremberg. In medieval and early modern times, Nuremberg was a rich centre for trade and early industry and it is no coincidence that the first railway in what is now Germany was built to link Nuremberg and Fürth. Despite World War II destroying much of it, the city's former wealth is still visible. And with its position on the crossroads of two major Autobahn and railway routes, the old saying "Nürnberger Tand geht in alle Land" (stuff from Nuremberg goes everywhere) still rings true. Sunday is a strict rest day here. Expect most businesses to be closed, although restaurants and museums usually remain open.

History

First mentioned in a document dating to 1050 (like other German cities without a clearly established founding date, Nuremberg uses its first mention in an official document as the basis for anniversaries) Nuremberg grew mostly around the castle ("Burg") which was initially dominated by local nobles and came into the possession of the Hohenzollern, an originally Swabish noble family that would later go on to acquire Brandenburg/Prussia and from 1871 even the imperial crown of the entire German state. While Nuremberg for the most part remained loyal to the Emperor, the wealthy merchants ("Patrizier") did not like interference of noble houses into their politics and eventually managed to "buy out" the Hohenzollern, who however kept possession of the areas around Ansbach and Bayreuth in two separate lines until the 18th century.

For all but the briefest visits, you'll do well to buy the Nürnberg + Fürth Card. This is valid for 48 hours and gives free admission to over 50 museums and attractions, and free travel on all public transport in Zone A of Nuremberg and Fürth. You also get discounts in many theatres, shops, and the IMAX cinema. The card price for adults is €33. Children aged 6 to 11 pay €11, children under 6 are free. See [2] and tourist board for more details.

If so many museums sounds daunting, a day-ticket just for the municipal museums is €9 - worth buying if you only see two, as the individual adult entry price is €6. Buy them at the first museum you visit. So two such days would cost €18, cheaper than the N+F card and your days needn't be consecutive, but it wouldn't include public transport. As of early 2018, these museums (all listed below) include Albrecht Dürer's House, Fembohaus City Museum, Toy Museum, Museum of Industrial Culture, Documentation Centre at the Reich Party Rally Grounds, and Memorium Nuremberg Trials. The day-ticket only includes the regular collection, not exhibitions, tours and events, and doesn't include the Kaiserburg.

The following listings are arranged geographically, north to south through the Old Town then beyond. But if you want to focus on buildings of a particular architectural style, visit this site.

Sebalder Altstadt

Top sights in Sebalder Altstadt, the northern half of town, include the Imperial Castle, the collection of old houses nearby, and St Sebald church. A suggested itinerary is to start with the castle, then admire the collection of old buildings around Tiergärtnerplatz and the Castle Quarter or Burgviertel. Some of these are original, having survived the war, others were rebuilt. Pilatushaus was home to a wealthy merchant. The street Fuell with its sandstone houses is a typical merchant's street. The craftsmen lived in timber-framed houses, many of which have been restored in Weissgerbergasse. More timber-framed houses can be seen in Obere and Untere Kraemersgasse. In Untere Kraemersgasse 16 you can often look into the tiny courtyard. Near here are the Kunstbunker, and Albrecht Dürer's house, listed below. Continue south down Bergstraße to St Sebald and the old town hall, which remains a working building. (Its dungeons re-open to visitors in summer 2018.)

Annual events

The big annual event in Nuremberg is the Christmas Market (Christkindlesmarkt), listed below. But there’s a full calendar throughout the year – check what’s on even if you don’t plan to attend, as there may be street closures and crowd congestion.

January-May

Panoptikum Children’s Theatre Festival (Kindertheaterfestival). 4-9 Feb 2020. Wide-ranging programme with artistes from Bavaria and across Europe. Aimed at children 3 and older, i.e. verbal and in German, though some shows use little or no spoken language. This festival runs alternate years so the subsequent event will be in 2022. (updated Dec 2019)

Nuremberg Carnival (Fastnachtszug). In February. This has been held since 1397. The main carnival parade is held on Sunday, and the children’s carnival is held on the Monday. (updated Dec 2017)

Nuremberg Spring Festival (Frühlingsfest), Dutzendteich. In March. Spring funfair held for two weeks in March/April. (“Volksfest” refers both to this spring festival, and the late summer festival in Aug/Sept.) (updated Dec 2017)

Nuremberg Flea Market (Trempelmärkte). In May. Trödelmarkt on the little river island is the permanent flea market, but the event on the second weekend in May and on the first weekend in September takes over the entire Old Town, with 4000 booths. Children have their own free area, where they can sell surplus toys. (updated Dec 2017)

Blue Night (Blaue Nacht). In May. A night when museums, churches and other cultural institutions stay open till dawn. Along with art and light installations, music and performances in Nuremberg's old town streets. The next Blue Night is 1-2 May 2020. (updated Dec 2019)

Figurentheaterfestival (Puppet Theatre Festival). In May. Held in alternate years. The next starts in late May 2021.

1 Embedded World, Nürnberg Exhibition Centre ( U1 Messe). February-March. One of the largest electronics shows in Europe, and a must see for anyone interested in high tech gadgets (robots, tablets, artificial intelligence, ...). Free with online vouchers. (updated Feb 2020)

Nuremberg offers a rich culinary heritage, most notably defined by its unique sausage varieties and traditional confectionery.

The city is world-renowned for the Nürnberger Rostbratwürste. These pork sausages are distinct from others in the Franconia region, characterised by a spicier flavour profile and a smaller size, typically half the length of standard varieties. The name is legally protected, meaning only sausages manufactured within the city limits may carry the title.

Restaurant dining: A standard portion consists of six Nuremberg sausages (compared to three of the larger Franconian type), which are grilled or pan-fried and served with sauerkraut or potato salad.

Street food: For a quick snack, three sausages are served in a bread roll; this is locally referred to as "Drei im Weggla".

Saure zipfel: An alternative preparation involves stewing the sausages in a broth of vinegar, onions and spices. The name, translating to "sour corners", refers to the broth marks left on the corners of the mouth during consumption.

Beyond the famous grilled sausages, several other styles are staples of the local diet:

​Presssack: A firm sausage similar to salami, typically sliced and served with mustard.

Stadtwurst: Often enjoyed with farmhouse bread and beer. When served "mit Musik" (with music), the sausages are sliced and topped with vinegar and raw onions; a humorous reference to the digestive effects of the dish.

Locating sausage outlets in Nuremberg is effortless. Notable historic locations include Zum Gulden Stern, Bratwursthäusle and Bratwurstglöcklein, which is situated at the entrance to the Old Town from the railway station.

Nuremberg is equally famous for Lebkuchen (gingerbread). For those purchasing for personal consumption rather than as a gift, it is advisable to seek out packages labelled "Bruch". These consist of broken pieces that remain high in quality but are sold at a lower price as they are unsuitable for souvenir packaging.

Other traditional sweets include:

​Eierzucker: Delicate white biscuits moulded into various shapes, such as horses.

​Kirschenmännla: A warm cherry casserole prepared with a light, loose dough.

Cafés

1 Kaffee Hörna, Scheurlstr. 11 (located in Südstadt), info@kaffehoerna.de. Mon Wed-Fri 07:00-17:00; Sat Sun 10:00-17:30. A tiny modern café with delicious Swedish-style cakes. (updated Mar 2016)

2 Café Kaulbach, Schweppermannstraße 28 ( U3 Kaulbachplatz), ☏ +49 911 93 744 744. Wed-Sun 09:00-18:00. The venue of the two great cake bakers that formerly operated the Café Wohlleben. (updated Mar 2016)

3 Balazzo Brozzi, ☏ +49 911-28 84 82, balazzo-brozzi@t-online.de. Mon-Fri 09:00-23:00; Sat Sun 09:00-23:00, closed first Mon of the month. A somewhat alternative café also regularly hosting subculture. (updated Mar 2016)

4 Zeitungs-Café Herrmann Kesten, Peter-Vischer-Straße 3 (usually entrance solely through the public library at Gewerbemuseumsplatz 4 (head to block K1); for events entrance left off the entrance of Katharinen-Rouine, you find the entrance to this place). A quiet retreat off city life, you may perfectly head here to read one of the many newspapers they offer or something you bring for yourself, for example. (updated Mar 2016)

5 Salon Regina, Fürther Straße 64 ( U1 Gostenhof or Bärenschanze (right in the middle between the stations), bus Gostenhof West). A café at day and a nice bar with a variety of people in the early evening - good to visit during daytime or to start your evening in Gostenhof. (updated Mar 2016)

6 Zumikon, Großweidenmühlstraße 21. Wed-Sun 12:00-19:00. Summer retreat and a friendly café with cake and partly also small, fresh dishes and great ice cream. (updated Sep 2016)

7 Café Mainheim, Bauerngasse 18 (Gostenhof). Mon-Fri 10:00-22:00, Sat 09:00-22:00, Sun 09:00-20:00. a nice and friendly café with a lot of space and air to breathe. Provides free WiFi for guests. (updated Sep 2016)

8 Caffé Fatal, Jagdstraße 16, ☏ +49 911 396363. daily starting at 09:00. A nice caffé with small dishes and a great breakfasts buffet. (updated Sep 2016)

9 Hildes Backwut, Schloßstraße 48, ☏ +49 911 4008797. Mon-Fri 05:30-18:00, Sat 18:00-14:00. A traditional bakery with a café, where they bake delicious bread, pastry, cakes. (updated Nov 2016)

The old town is best explored on foot. To get from one part of the old town to another by car or public transport, you will often have to leave the old town and reenter it at a different gate.

By public transport

There are three U-bahn or underground lines U1 , U2 and U3 ; seven Straßenbahn or tram lines 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8 , , ; and four S-Bahn or suburban train lines S1 , S2 , S3 and S4 , with the S-Bahn lines all reaching far beyond the city limits. They all radiate out from the main railway station. The tram lines have two main hubs at 7 Plärrer U1 U2 U3 4 6 and the main station which are linked by subway but only awkwardly and indirectly by tram. Public transit is particularly useful for reaching the airport (U2), the Museum of Industrial Culture (Tram 8), the Nazi party rally grounds (S2 or trams 6 or 8), and some of the outlying hotels, as well as nearby towns such as Bamberg (S1). They're all within the integrated VGN, as described in "Get in". A standard Zone A adult ticket is €3.10; a four-journey ticket (which can be split, so a couple could make a return journey) is €11.

U1 links Nuremberg and Fürth, which was the first line to be built and was actually built from the "outside" (Langwasser, a new housing complex built together with the U-Bahn) inwards; U2 links Röthenbach (almost but not quite Stein bei Nürnberg) and the airport; U3 shares its core route with U2 — between Rothenburger Straße and Rathenauplatz — but branches towards Nordwestring in the north and Großreuth in the south, forming an overall U-Shape with both endpoints west of the city centre. U3 is being extended with two more stations on the southern branch scheduled to open in 2025, while lines U1 and U2 seem to have reached their endpoints for the time being. There was extensive talk of tram extensions in the 2010s, but apart from a project to link the Tram (current Line 4) to Erlangen and Herzogenaurach, they seem to be all on hold until federal or state funds are forthcoming.

According to the state police, Nuremberg has the lowest crime rate of the cities with more than 400,000 inhabitants.