A plan for Naples

Naples represents one of the oldest continuously-inhabited cities in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site with an unmatched heritage as a place of exchange between cultures. This is reflected in the city's structure and monuments, which are a mixture of Greek, Roman, Norman, Angevin, Spanish and French architecture. The UNESCO evaluation committee described Naples' historic centre the largest in Europe – as being "of exceptional value", and went on to say that Naples' setting on its Bay "gives it an outstanding universal value which has had a profound influence". But Italians have known these things for centuries: The view of Naples from the sea is so beautiful that a traditional Italian saying states that once you've seen it, you can die.

As a testimony to its extraordinary history, the Naples region hosts an unparalleled concentration of UNESCO World Heritage sites: the Center of Naples itself; the Roman archaeological sites of Pompeii, Herculaneum, Cumae, Pozzuoli, Liternum, Oplontis and Stabiae; the Royal Palace of Caserta; the royal site of San Leucio and the Aqueduct of Vanvitelli. It is close to Vesuvius, the only active volcano on the European continent and a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Paestum's Greek temples and the Amalfi Coast are possible day trips, as are the islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida in the Bay of Naples.

In literary history, Naples is known as a favourite destination of the Roman poet Virgil. This is where he wrote the Roman national epic "Aeneid", and where he was eventually buried. A more contemporary Neapolitan author is the pseudonym Elena Ferrante, whose Neapolitan Novels follow two girls growing up in a poor Naples neighbourhood from the 1950s and onward.

In 2013, Naples was the World Capital of Cultures and hosted the Universal Forum of Cultures.

As a UNESCO World Heritage site, the historic centre of Naples hosts a huge number of architectural landmarks.

Churches and religious structures

1 Cappella Sansevero. A chapel built in 1590, it contains sculptures and other works of art by some of the leading Italian artists of the 18th century, like the extraordinary Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino. It also has a high scientific interest because it hosts the anatomical machines, a still mysterious experiment by Raimondo Di Sangro, a prominent Renaissance scientist. In addition, in the basement there are two human vein models, looking like plastination. Because of the small size, the waiting queue may be longer than at other attractions in Naples. €12 (reductions available). (updated Jan 2026)

2 San Francesco di Paola (Municipio 1 ). One of the main churches in Naples, it's at the west side of Piazza del Plebiscito, the city's main square. The place was planned by King Joachim Murat of Naples (Napoleon's brother-in-law) as a tribute to the emperor. When Napoleon was dispatched, Ferdinand I of Bourbon continued the construction but converted the final product into the church one sees today. The church is reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome. The façade is fronted by a portico resting on six columns and two Ionic pillars. Inside, the church is circular with two side chapels. The dome is 53 metres high.

Theatres

Enjoy classical music in the Neapolitan temple of opera, or other performances such as musicals, comedies and actors' exhibitions in one of the theatres in the historic centre.

1 Real Teatro San Carlo (Royal Theatre of Saint Charles), Via San Carlo, 98/F (Municipio 1 ; beside the Royal Palace.), ☏ +39 081 797 2331, biglietteria@teatrosancarlo.it. Mon-Sat 10:00-17:30, Sun 10:00-14:00. Founded in 1737, is the oldest continuously active opera house in Europe. In the 18th century, Naples was the capital of European music, and even foreign composers like Hasse, Haydn, Johann Christian Bach and Gluck considered the performance of their compositions at the San Carlo theatre as the goal of their career. Two main Italian opera composers, Gioacchino Rossini and Gaetano Donizetti, were artistic directors of the San Carlo for many years. Other prominent opera composers, like Vincenzo Bellini, Giuseppe Verdi, Giacomo Puccini, Pietro Mascagni, and Leoncavallo, staged here the very first productions of their works (like for example the famous Lucia di Lammermoor by Donizetti).

2 Teatro Bellini (Bellini Theatre), Via Conte di Ruvo, 14 (Museo 1 2 ; two blocks south of National Archaeological Museum), ☏ +39 081 549 1266, botteghino@teatrobellini.it. 10:30-13:30, 16:00-19:00. Built in 1878 and named after the Sicilian composer Vincenzo Bellini, the Bellini Theatre hosted prestigious events such as operas for almost a century. In 1960s a period of decline started for the structure, that became a sort of cheap movie cinema, away from the splendor of its origins. In 1986 the theatre was restored and reopened two years later, starting a lucky phase that lasts even today. (updated Jun 2018)

You will find many sauces based on garlic sauteed in extra-virgin olive oil, tomatoes, and local red wines. Some of the sauces are arrabbiata ("angry") or fra diavolo ("brother Devil"), which means they will contain hot pepper. It's a great cuisine.

Fresh mozzarella di bufala (mozzarella made from European buffaloes' milk) is also typical of the region.

Pizza

While pizza is a traditional Neapolitan dish, it became ubiquitous in the Italian cuisine only in modern times. Neapolitan pizza is listed by UNESCO as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. UNESCO recognise two types: pizza margherita, the original one, with tomato, basil, oil and fresh mozzarella toppings; and pizza marinara, with tomato, garlic, oregano and oil. In Naples every pizzeria makes a decent pizza, and Neapolitans believe their pizza is the best in the world. Unlike pizza in, e.g., the United States, Neapolitan pizza is generally very thin-crusted and saucy and is expected to be eaten as a whole while sitting down.

Some places display the label Vera Pizza Napoletana ("True Neapolitan Pizza"; there is a Pulcinella mask baking a pizza in a stylized Vesuvio) which indicates that the pizzeria follows the standards of The Naples Pizza Association. Regarding pizzerias near Forcella: It is not the safest part of Naples, although generally OK during the day.

Seafood

Neapolitan cuisine in general features much seafood, befitting its status as an ancient and still functioning port. The most popular fish recipe is Polpo alla lucìana, consisting in octopus cooked in a terracotta pan with tomatoes, garlic, capers, pepper and black olives of Gaeta, served with chopped parsley. The name derives from the ancient fishing port of Borgo of Santa Lucia, now a tourist port close to Castel dell'Ovo.

Other important traditional dishes are spaghetti alle vongole, acqua pazza, paccheri with fish soup and anchovies, prepared in various recipes or added on pizza.

Budget

Almost all the pizzerias in Via dei Tribunali are very popular among Neapolitans, in particular Di Matteo and Trattoria Don Vincenzo.

Naples is becoming increasingly popular with a younger generation of Italians and foreigners who flood into the city and lend renewed vitality to its nightlife. The hippest scene is around the bars and cafes on Piazza Bellini, Piazza Santa Maria la Nova and Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, becoming busy after 23:00. Also, Piazza San Pasquale and Mergellina are typical places for the local movida. If you want to venture to the outskirts of the city, there are many bars and clubs near the port and boardwalk of Pozzuoli.

While Neapolitans (and Vigili Urbani, the town's local police) are largely tolerant to youngsters drinking, having fun and making noise, even at late hours, getting drunk and causing damage or littering is not tolerated.

Campanian wine has become famous worldwide in the last decade or so, and delicious naturally lightly carbonated mineral water with minerals from Vesuvius is available and worth searching out.

Coffee

Neapolitan coffee is a true specialty, on a par with the world-famous pizza and starting the day drinking a cup of it represents a daily ritual. Preparing an authentic one requires the use of a particular flip coffee pot (locally called cuccumèlla) to obtain the typical intense flavor. Also if not all cafes and bars still use it, the quality of this extraordinary drink is excellent in almost every part of the city.

1 Gran Caffè Gambrinus, Via Chiaia, 1/2 (beside Piazza del Plebiscito and San Carlo Theatre), ☏ +39 081 41 7582, info@grancaffegambrinus.com. 07:00-01:00. Enjoy the special Neapolitan coffee in one of the most prestigious and famous cafes in Italy. Founded in 1860 in the rear of Palazzo delle Prefettura, the cafe was also known for being a meeting site for intellectuals, artists and politicians. (updated Jun 2018)

2 Caffè Ciorfito, Via San Biagio dei Librai, 90, ☏ +39 081 203 161. Mon-Sat 06:00-20:00. Taste the authentic Neapolitan coffee and pastries in a welcoming cafe in the heart of the old town, usually visited by Italian actors. (updated Jun 2018)

Traffic in Naples can be extremely heavy, similar to that of other big cities like Paris and New York. Extensive excavation works are ongoing to complete some metro segments, adding further to traffic in some areas. A typical example is the train station area, which is undergoing a complete makeover (a model of how it will look is observable in the interior of Stazione Centrale), plus the excavation of a metro line connecting it with Capodichino Airport. Another example is Piazza Nicola Amore (commonly known as Piazza Quattro Palazzi because of the four twin buildings surrounding it), where metro line excavations revealed an ancient Roman temple, whose structure will be integrated in the futuristic station designed by the world-class architect Renzo Piano.

Normal traffic regulations are generally observed in Naples; however, it is prudent to follow the locals when crossing the street. Since pedestrians often cross the street in the middle of the block, Neapolitan drivers are very attentive, and accidents are very rare. Remember to always look left (and not right) for incoming cars or motorbikes, since circulation follows European standards.

By taxi

Taxis and the Metro are the quickest ways to see Naples. Taxis are the most expensive way, though. Before getting into a taxi, make sure it is licensed. Licensed taxis will have a city crest on the door and a taxi number. Also, make sure it has a meter. By law, licensed taxis must display a list of set fares in a number of languages (Italian, English, French, German, Spanish). Check for such fares and agree to them before starting the journey. Moreover, you have to explicitly request whether you want the fixed fare or the meter before starting the journey.

The city has an inequitable distribution of wealth, and some run-down areas are quite close to elegant ones. Two places better to avoid after dark are the "Quartieri Spagnoli" (Spanish Quarters) and the "Sanità", both in the historic centre, that are reasonably safe during the day and also have notable points of interest. Especially to be avoided, but of no practical interest for tourists, is Scampia, where there is much petty crime and drug traffic.

Naples' bad reputation regarding safety is mainly due to stereotypes, since the city's security level is actually comparable to many other European big cities (e.g., Barcelona, Marseille, Amsterdam). Petty thievery and muggings definitely do happen, so be reasonably watchful, avoid empty streets and dimly-lit alleys at night, and keep your wits about yourself. On the other hand, since weather is generally nice, Neapolitans spend a lot of time in the streets, including in the winter and at night. Places like Mergellina and the boardwalk of Via Caracciolo are generally full of people till late at night and very safe.

Contrary to what newspapers, books and movies seem to suggest, the local mafia (Camorra) poses little or no threat to tourists. It is involved in activities like prostitution (which is illegal in Italy), racketeering and drug trafficking.

Aside from issues of petty crime, Naples is a very safe town for women. Official statistical data from ISTAT (the Italian Government Official Statistical Office) show that Naples' rape rate is much lower than that of other Italian cities like Milan, Rome or Florence. Young women who appear to be unaccompanied may experience some more or less persistent flirting from Neapolitan men, but you will usually be left alone if you show them you are not interested.

Whoever comes to Naples' old town has to take some generic precautions, normal for any big town with poor areas:

It is advised not to carry a handbag as it can be snatched or "picked" by thieves. Neapolitan women who use a purse do not sling it across their shoulders but wear it across their chest.

Do not wear expensive watches or flashy jewellery.

Do not use a costly camera or video camera.

Do not wander down small dark streets or alleys, especially in the Spanish Quarters.