A plan for Nantes

"From the principle ones of the city rebellion

Who will strive to cover their liberty

The males hacked to pieces, a futile conflict,

Cries, lamentation, at Nantes; piteous to see."

- cheery prophesy of Nostradamus, Century V, Verse 33

The River Loire is navigable by shallow-draught boats for 140 km upstream. Nantes 50 km upstream is at the confluence with the small River Erdre, which has dumped its silt to form river islands and break the Loire into a leash of channels. The Namnetes were a Gaulish tribe; their name likely meant "river" or "stream". The Romans took control in the 1st century BC and stayed until the 5th century AD. In medieval times the town belonged to Brittany, whose dukes built up the castle and resisted the growing power of France, until a dynastic marriage of 1491 united the realms. In 1598 the town gave its name to the Edict of Nantes, which granted tolerance of Protestants or Huguenots; this ended religious wars in France but displeased many and horrified the pope. It was revoked in 1685, leading to a mass exodus of Huguenots and the blighting of French industry.

Nantes became a major port during the 15th century, and was the country's largest by 1700. It then grew rich from the Atlantic slave triangle, exporting manufactured goods to West Africa, thence slaves to the Caribbean, and back to Nantes laden with sugar, rum, tobacco, indigo, coffee and cocoa. The French Revolution was disastrous for the city's economy: Atlantic trade withered, wars with Britain brought a naval blockade, and other French ports outgrew Nantes. By the time the railway arrived in 1851, larger ships struggled to come this far upriver, and trade moved downstream to Saint-Nazaire. One observer of that maritime trade, and fired by tales of exotic journeys, was the writer Jules Verne, born here in 1828.

In the 20th century several river channels were filled in, and small river islands were consolidated into a single Île de Nantes. No sooner done than France was invaded by Nazi Germany, which set about its trademark murderous regime. The city also came under heavy Allied bombing in 1943. Postwar saw the decline of manufacturing industry and the rise of the service sector, plus a large student population which helps the city feel young and lively.

Jardin des Plantes is a bosky park just north of the railway station, bounded to the west by Rue Stanislas Baudry and east by Rue Frédéric Cailliaud. It's free to enter in daylight hours. By its northeast corner is the back entrance to Bouteillerie cemetery, with elaborate 19th-century ornaments, and First World War graves in regimented rows.

1 Château des ducs de Bretagne (Castle of the Dukes of Brittany), 4 Place Marc Elder, ☏ +33 2 5117 4948. Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00. Sturdy moated castle built from 1207, though most of it is from 1466. It was a ducal and royal seat, notably of Duchess Anne, whose dynastic marriages sealed the union of Brittany with France in 1532. The Revolution did it little harm until a powder magazine explosion of 1800. It became a museum in 1924 but closed for reconstruction in 1990, re-opening in 2007. The main entrance is west by the tourist office and you can also approach north or south; these all bring you into the courtyard and the ticket office for the museum. Courtyard, ramparts and garden are free to enter. Museum adult €9, conc €5, child free. (updated Jul 2023)

Miroir d'eau is an ornamental pond south side of the castle with a pleasing reflection.

2 Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul, 7 Impasse Saint-Laurent. Closed. Magnificent Gothic cathedral built in fits and starts from 1434. In modern times it has been seriously damaged by Allied bombing in 1945, by an accidental fire in 1972, and by arson in 2020. It therefore remains closed. The arsonist was later given shelter in a church mission, in the spirit of "turning the other cheek". He then murdered the mission priest. (updated Jun 2023)

Place Maréchal-Foch is the broad pleasant square just north of the cathedral, named for the French military commander of the First World War. The fellow teetering atop the column with his head still on is Louis XVI, one of the few such statues to survive Revolutionary zeal.

3 Musée des Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts Museum), Rue Clémenceau 10, ☏ +33 2 5117 4500. Wed, Fri-Mon 11:00-19:00, Thu 11:00-21:00. A beautiful building of 1801 with an extensive permanent collection and temporary exhibitions. It has absorbed Chapelle de l'Oratoire, a baroque chapel of 1655 now used as an exhibition space. Adult €9, conc €4, child free. (updated Jul 2023)

Le Lieu Unique is a cultural centre at 2 Rue de la Biscuiterie, 200 m west of gare sud entrance. It has exhibitions, expositions, sauna, restaurant and bar. You can pay €3 to ascend its Tour LU.

Planetarium is at 8 Rue des Acadiens next to Jules Verne Museum, open M-F 10:00-12:30, 13:30-18:00, Sa Su 13:30-18:00.

Football: FC Nantes were relegated in 2026 and now play soccer in Ligue 2, the second tier. Their home ground Stade de la Beaujoire (capacity 35,300) is 5 km northeast of the city centre, off the bypass N844. Take Tram 1.

Cinemas near the centre are Le Cinématographe north of the castle, Gaumont just south of Place Royale, and Katorza just north of Place Graslin.

Hellfest is a heavy metal concert held in June in nearby Clisson.

La Nuit de l'Erdre is a music festival in Nort-sur-Erdre in July.

Stade Nantais the rugby union club play away down in the regional amateur leagues, at Stade Pascal-Laporte.

Boat trips ply the river between Nantes and Saint-Nazaire. They sail May-Oct several days a week, daily in August, taking 2 hr 30 min each way. The riverbank is dotted with wacky artworks. You can return on the train, which you'll have to do if you take an afternoon boat.

Budget

Some cafés and crêperies offer affordable prix-fixe menus for lunch. Try the local galettes de sarrasin, buckwheat crêpes.

La Ripaille Burger, 10 Rue du Château (50 m west of castle entrance), ☏ +33 2 5189 9951. Mon-Fri 12:00-14:00, 19:00-22:00, Sat Sun 12:00-22:00. Above-average quality at this sit-in fast-food cafe. (updated Jun 2023)

L'Épicerie de Ginette, 6 Place du Bouffay (north of Feydeau by Bouffay tram stop), ☏ +33 9 6704 6163. Mon-Sat 12:00-00:00, Sun 12:00-23:00. Friendly small grocery cafe. (updated Jun 2023)

L'endroit, 2 Allée de la Tremperie (by Bouffay tram stop), ☏ +33 2 4035 5523. Tue-Fri 09:00-22:00, Mon, Sat 11:00-22:00. Small brasserie just north of Feydeau. (updated Jun 2023)

Café du Passage, 1 Place Félix Fournier (facing Basilique Saint-Nicolas). Mon-Sat 09:30-20:30. Pleasant cafe-bar for coffee and light bites next to the Basilica. (updated Jun 2023)

Fresh Burritos, 5 Rue de Gorges (south off Place Royale), ☏ +33 2 4012 4508. Daily 11:00-22:20. Good Mexican food. (updated Jun 2023)

1 Le Loo Librairie Gourmande, 22 Rue Baron, ☏ +33 9 7352 3475. Mon 10:30-15:00, Tue-Fri 10:30-19:00. Pleasant coffee-shop and bookshop. (updated Jun 2023)

2 Au Bureau Nantes, 10 Quai Francois Mitterrand, ☏ +33 2 2808 7076. Sun-Tue 11:00-22:00, Wed-Sat 11:00-23:00. Chain pub near the law courts similar to TGI Friday. Mixed reviews on value for money. (updated Jun 2023)

Mid-range

Le Molière, 2 Rue Racine (west flank of Théâtre Graslin), ☏ +33 2 4073 2053. Mon-Sat 08:00-02:00. Chic cafe-bar with good menu selection. You're paying for the location. (updated Jun 2023)

Le Cambronne Bistrot Chic, 6 Rue de l'Héronnière (50 m south of Place Graslin), ☏ +33 2 4047 3642. Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30, 19:00-22:30, Sun 12:00-14:30. Smart restaurant with varied European menu. (updated Jun 2023)

Le Bistrot Basque de Nantes, 5 Rue Beauregard (100 m west of Église Sainte-Croix), ☏ +33 2 4035 3117. Tue-Fri 08:00-19:00, Sun Mon 10:00-19:00. Spanish tapas and similar cuisine. (updated Jun 2023)

Le Falstaff, 1 bis Rue Kervégan (central on Feydeau island), ☏ +33 2 4020 0910. Tue-Sat 12:00-14:00, 19:00-22:00. Tartare is the specialty here, oozing with garlic. (updated Jun 2023)

Buck Mulligan's is an Irish pub at 12 Rue du Château near the castle entrance, open daily 16:00-00:00.

Le Live is at 7 Rue des États by the castle entrance. It has food and live music and is open M-Sa 14:00-02:00, Su 14:00-00:30.

Le Bar du Coin, east side of Église Saint-Croix, has an old-fashioned interior and occasionally an in-house DJ. It's open M-W 14:00-02:00, Th-Su 12:00-02:00.

John McByrne is the name of two entirely separate Irish pubs along Rue de la Juiverie, midway between castle and Église Saint-Croix. Only in Ireland, eh? John McBryne & Co is the one mid-street, jostled by two Japanese and one Lebanese restaurant and a curry house. John McBryne without the "& Co" is round the corner at 21 Rue des Petites Ecuries. They both have TV sport and English-speaking staff and are open late.

Le Shaft is a small cosy bar nearby at 14 Rue Petites Ecuries, open daily 16:00-02:00.

La Maison Café is a bar decorated as a 1970s house, so you can have a drink sitting in a bathtub in the "bathroom". It's at 4 Rue Lebrun, an alley connecting Rue Sully and Rue du Maréchal Joffre 150 m north of the cathedral, open M-Sa 15:00-02:00, Su 17:00-00:00.

Délirium Café at 19 Allée Baco has a lively student atmosphere. It's open Tu-Sa 17:30-02:00.

Fleming's is an Irish pub at 22 Rue des Carmes, corner with Rue des Trois Croissants, open Su-F 14:00-02:00, Sa 10:00-02:00. It's lined with books so they're aiming for literary Irish, and show TV sport. Mixed reviews for service and welcome.

Little Atlantic Brewery is downriver at 23 Blvd de Chantenay. The beerhall and restaurant are open daily.

Nantes vineyards are to the southeast towards Clisson. The local Muscadet goes well with seafood. Local wine is also distilled into marc and brandy.

Breton cider comes in brut or doux (sweet) varieties. For a summertime drink, kir Breton is cider with fruit liquor such as black currant, blackberry, or peach.

Public transport

Naolib is the integrated public transport network, with three tram lines, two BusWays (buses with re-assignment surgery into trams), 50-some daytime bus lines, three night buses, and Navibus river ferries. Most stops have real-time indicator boards.

In 2023 an adult single ticket is €2 buying on board, €1.80 from a ticket machine, €1.60 from a carnet of ten, and €1.52 by e-ticket "Formule Sur Mesure". These tickets are valid for one hour with unlimited transfers. A 24-hour ticket is €6 for one person and €11 for up to four people. Town trams and buses are free on Saturday and Sunday: this includes Bus 38 to the airport but excludes the navette.

Public transportation is free on weekends.

By taxi

City fares, last published in 2019, are €7.10 flagfall, €1.78/km travelled and €26/hr waiting. These apply M-Sa 07:00-19:00.

There are taxi ranks by Place du Commerce and the railway station.

By bike

Nantes is bicycle-friendly, with bike lanes along most major roads, and many small streets only accessible by pedestrians and cyclists.

Naolib vélo is the self-service network: registration starts at €2 for a day, with a €150 deposit. It's designed for short trips not extended sight-seeing, so the first 30 minutes are free, then you pay €0.50 for the next 30 min, €1 for the following 30 min, thereafter €2 per 30 min up to 24 hours. Other plans are aimed at long-term users. There are almost 100 pick-up and drop-off locations across the city, and the map indicates real-time availability. Plans are automatically renewed each month (even the 'sans engagement' ones), so remember to explicitly cancel the plan at the end of your trip.

Nantes is generally a safe city, but the standard precautions around avoiding intoxicated people and being careful of your belongings apply.

Political demonstrations can (and regularly do) turn violent. Try not to stay around.