A plan for Lviv

History

The city has a multicultural history but little of the evidence of this has survived until today. It was founded in 1256 by King Daniel of Galicia (Ukrainian: Король Данило Галицький - Korol' Danylo Halytskyy) and fell under Polish control in the 14th century. Poles, Jews, Ukrainians, Armenians, Germans and others lived there together for centuries. This multicultural experience virtually came to an end during and after WWII. Germans killed most of the Jews (about one third of Lviv's population at that time). At the end and in the direct aftermath of the war, the remaining Polish population (about 65% of the population) was then "repatriated" to Poland in its new borders by the Soviet government. Some Polish and Jewish heritage is preserved, for example remains of some synagogues and a number of catholic churches, also one can find some inscriptions on former shops in Polish, Yiddish and German.

Because of Lviv's proximity to the EU and its openness to foreigners, the city's multicultural feel has experienced a resurgence. Even today, walking through the city centre, a traveller can hear Poles laughing and taking pictures of the beautiful old buildings, Germans walking through the city on guided tours, Ukrainian or Russian tourists and students joking about this or that, and American or British businessmen chatting in cafes. There is even a small Jewish community in the city. The many universities in Lviv attract students from every continent on the globe, and its old architecture draws tourists from various parts of the world, including Ukraine.

The Polish king John II Casimir founded the Lviv University in the 17th century and Lviv (known as Lwów) was by that time one of the most important cities in the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, along with Kraków, Warsaw, Gdańsk and Vilnius.

In 1772 the city was taken by the Habsburgs, and in Austrian times it was known as Lemberg, the capital of Galicia. After the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1918, it was returned to Poland.

Churches in the Old Town

1 Jesuit Roman-Catholic Church (Костьол єзуїтів), Teatral'na str, 11. Go explore the underground space beneath the church (entrance from the back side of the church). Ask for a tour guide, you will learn a lot about the city history. Church itself was built based on Rome's Il Gesu church. It could accommodate up to 5,000 faithful. Built in baroque style in 1610–1630, finishing work continued into 1660. In 1775–1848, the church building took place in meetings of the birth of the Diet Galicia, the first provincial parliament.

2 Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord (Tserkva Preobrazhennia Hospoda Nashoho Isusa Khrysta, Церковь Преображения Господа Нашего Иисуса Христа), Krakivs'ka str, 21. On the site of the former church of the Holy Trinity which was part of The Trinitarian fathers monastery (1703). In 1783, the monastery was closed. Inside the church is a library and assembly hall. Burned out. The Church of Transfiguration was consecrated on 29 April 1906.

3 Armenian Cathedral (Вірменський собор), Virmenska str, 7-13. An architectural complex of the centre around which other buildings are grouped to form three small enclosed courtyards. Constructed between 1363 and 1370, later remodelled a few times. Very interesting interior.

4 Dominican Roman-Catholic Church (Домініканський костьол (Церква Пресвятої Євхаристії)), Muzeina sq, 1. Built in the Gothic style in the years 1370–1375. Impressive Baroque temple rebuilt for Dominicans in 18th century. Resembles the church of St. Charles Borromeus in Vienna with its concave façade and huge elliptical dome. After World War II, the building served as a warehouse and later Museum of Religion and Atheism. Now it is a Greek Catholic parish church.

Culture

Attend a concert or festival. Lviv has been called the "Queen of Festivals" as a city, because there is often a different festival every other week. Some festivals with many free activities are the Chocolate Festival, the Coffee Festival, and the Alpha Jazz Festival. Stop by the Tourist Information Center on Rynok Square to find out more about what festivals are happening during your stay in Lviv.

1 S. Krushelnytska Opera House, Svobody Ave, 28 (Tram). In the very heart of Lviv the historic opera house offers regular performances of various operas and ballets. Tickets can be purchased at the theatre cashier ("Kaca") ranging in price from 50 грн to 80 грн. Even if opera and ballet is not your cup of tea, a night at the theatre is worthwhile, at the very least, to enjoy this spectacular venue. (updated Sep 2023)

2 Lviv philharmonic Society Concert hall (Львівська обласна філармонія), Chaikovs'koho P. str.,7 (South - Bus 3А, 4А, 48, 53 to 'Knyazya Romana St'), ☏ +380 32 2 72-10-42, fax: +380 32 2 35-81-22, spilka@mail.lviv.ua. Cash Desk 11:00-19:00. 40, 60, 80, 100 грн. (updated Sep 2023)

3 Mini "People and Dolls" Theatre (Львівський театр естрадних мініатюр "І люди, і ляльки"), Fredra O. str.(вул. Фредра), 6, ☏ +380 32 2 61-31-25, +380 32 2 61-21-27.

4 Les Kurbas youth theatre (Львівський молодіжний театр ім. Леся Курбаса), Kurbasa L. str., 3 (Tram 2, 9, 10 to 'Petra Doroshenka St'), ☏ +380 32 2 72-49-14, +380 32 2 72-92-04.

5 The first Ukrainian theatre for children & young people (Перший український театр для дітей та юнацтва), Hnatiuka V. akad. str., 11 (Tram 2, 9, 10 to 'Petra Doroshenka St'), ☏ +380 32 2 72-68-41, +380 32 2 72-78-10.

6 Lviv State Circus (Львівський державний цирк), Horodots'ka str., 83, ☏ +380 32 2 38-53-27, +380 32 2 38-53-30.

Sports

7 Stadiumn Torpedo (Стадион "Торпедо"), Vul. Gorbenka (вулиця Горбенка) (Take tram 7 to stop Turyanskoho St).

8 SKA Stadium (Стадион СКА), Kleparivska St (вул. Клепарівська), 39, ☏ +380 32 2 33-23-79.

Budget

Life in Lviv is very cheap. It's not difficult to find a place where you can have a full meal for 200 UAH. The challenge is rather ordering if you don't speak Ukrainian.

1 Arsen #2 Supermarket (Супермаркет Арсен N2), Viacheslava Chornovola Ave. (пр-т Черновола), 93 (Northwestern quarter - 'Lviv 700 years old' Park), ☏ +380 32 2 97-60-70. Mon-Fri 08:00-23:00, Sun 09:00-22:00. More units: west 2.5 km ul. Paton, 37, Phone +380 32 2 44-19-25, M-F 08:00-23:00, Su 09:00-22:00; southeast 1.5 km ul. Zelenaya, 147, Phone +380 32 2 40-52-58, M-F 08:00-23:00, Su 09:00-22:00; south 3 km ul. Kn. Olga, 120, Phone +380 32 2 45-76-54 M-F 08:00-23:00, Su 09:00-22:00 (updated Sep 2023)

2 Potato House Fast Food Restaurant (Ресторан Картопляна хата), Chornovola V. ave., 65 (Northwestern quarter - Eldorado Shopping Center), ☏ +380 32 2 52-19-75. Restaurant chain.

3 McDonald's Restaurant (Ресторан Макдональдз), Chornovola V. Ave., 12 (Northwestern quarter), ☏ +380 32 2 97-04-14. Restaurant chain. Wi-Fi.

4 Bistro (Бістро), Panteleymona Kulisha, 13 (Northwestern quarter), ☏ +380 32 2 72-21-65.

5 Bistro (Бістро), Horodotska str., 11 (Northwestern quarter), ☏ +380 32 2 40-35-98. Fast Food Chain

6 Puzata Hata (Ресторан Пузата хата), Sichovykh Striltsiv Str., 12 (Northwestern quarter - in same building Mini Hostel/Hostel2 Lviv). This fast food chain offers hearty Ukrainian smörgåsbord. Cafeteria-style eatery has a selection of traditional Ukrainian food mixed with some other food found around the area.

Acropolis Tavern, 44 Rynok Square, ☏ +380 97 550 3311. 09:00-23:00 daily. A Greek casual diner. The staff speak English and may well start dancing, in traditional style, given any amount of encouragement. Gyros and souvlaki for 120 грн. (updated Sep 2023)

7 Idalnia #1 Gurman (Gourmet), Petra Doroshenka 7 (Tram 2,9, 10 to 'Petra Doroshenka'). They are cooking only from Ukrainian products.

Mid-range

8 Cafe 1, sq. Katedralna 5 (Center- off Rynok Square). A very cosy cafe/casual dining restaurant that offers a varied range of modern cuisine. It has a warm atmosphere with non-smoking and smoking areas plus friendly and thoughtful staff.

Ukraine in general (and Lviv in particular) have developed a fantastic beer and wine scene since the Revolution of Dignity in 2014. In addition to mass-market brands like Chernihivske and Lvivske (which has its brewery in Lviv at Kleparivska 18 and includes a lovely beer museum), there is a wide variety of craft brands. Highlights include Pravda (an iconic Lviv brand with excellent beer and legendary bottle art, with its flagship location at the bottom of Ploscha Rynok), Mova, Ten Men, Varvar, Tsypa, and First Dnipro.

Cheap beer on tap in Lviv is in the range of 60-80 UAH (~1.25-2.00 EUR). Crafty, expensive beer is in the 120-160 UAH (3-5 EUR) price range.

Cafés

Mapa, Halyc'ka 4. (Map), a quiet café with a special atmosphere and tasty Italian coffee. There are three large rooms for visitors: a large room on the first floor, and old-style rooms in the basement.

Rodzinka Cafe, Lukschy street Anhelovych, 32, ☏ +380 96 274 0538. Cheap, but very good. (updated May 2019)

1 Pid Synoju Flyazhkoju (Under the Blue Bottle), Ruska 4, ☏ +38 32 2 94-91-52. 10:00-22:00. Intimate, medieval. (updated Mar 2022)

Bars

Tsehla Bar (Brick Bar in Ukrainian), Brativ Rohatyntsiv, 9. This bar is the favorite hangout of the foreign volunteer crowd, particularly after volunteering shifts end at around 8 or 9 PM. Provides a standard offering of beers on tap, along with ciders, mixed drinks, and house-made liqueurs, all for low prices even by Lviv standards.

Dobryy Druh Pub (Good Friend Pub), several locations across downtown. Dobryy Druh has around 5 pubs in the downtown area with standard and craft beers, cocktails, liqueurs, and standard pub food. Popular with younger crowds (especially the location on Kryva Lypa near Ivan Franko University), and often a good place to catch a football match.

By public transport

Single ride tickets in trams, trolleybuses, buses and marshrutka cost:

26 ₴, tap the validator inside the bus with NFC-enabled bank card or smartphone (Apple Pay or Google Pay).

23 ₴ if tapped with a public transport card LeoCard or app.

30 ₴ if paid in cash to the driver.

Lviv has a convenient public transport system that includes:

8 tram routes

10 trolleybus routes

18 bus routes

31 marshrutka routes

Monthly travel passes are available for 420 ₴.

Passes can be used in trams and trolleybuses.

Schedules are available on the map and on rozklad.in.ua (in Ukrainian).

You can also check information about public transport on DozoR (in Ukrainian), EasyWay and Google Maps.

By taxi

Taxi is the easiest way of getting around the city, and are very cheap by European standards. Most trips which are not of exceptional distance or at exceptionally busy times should cost under €5. Some popular taxi companies include:

Uber (Убер)

Bolt (Болт)

Uklon (Уклон)

OnTaxi (ОнТаксі)

Opti (Опті)

Shark (Шарк)

Taxi838

Note: Many taxi apps do not operate during the 00:00-05:00 curfew. Uklon and Taxi838 are exceptions, and can be used to get to or from your hotel if your train departs or arrives during curfew.

By scooter

Renting a kick scooter is a fun way to get around the city quickly.

Bolt (Болт). (updated Sep 2023)

E-wings. (updated Sep 2023)

BikeNow (БайкНау). (updated Oct 2023)

By bike

There are more than 100 km of infrastructure for bicycles in Lviv. While you can use your own bike, you can also rent one using one of the following companies:

Wartime dangers in Lviv are low. It is quite rare that drones or missiles actually attack the city (2-3 times per year, compared to nearly nightly raids against Kyiv), but it has happened before, tragically killing innocent people.

To be notified of air raids and the type of possible incoming threat, download the Повитряна Тривога (Air Raid Alert) app (Google Play, Apple) and set the location to wherever you are in the country. It has full English functionality and is voiced by Mark Hammill (who will sternly remind you to take shelter when an air raid is announced and assure you when the all-clear is given). The app also announces when drones or missiles are flying in your general area.

If there is an air raid siren during the day in Lviv, it will almost certainly pass uneventfully (they are ordered across the country every time a certain type of Russian warplane starts flying). If a siren sounds during the night, a cautious person may wish to relocate to their hotel's basement or to remain in an area between two solid walls like a corridor or bathroom. If you decide to travel to Kyiv and cities further east, the air raid dangers increase significantly, and your safety protocols should be more strict.

Petty crime is low in comparison to much of the rest of Europe, and it is generally easy to stay safe by exercising common sense, not getting too drunk, and being a civil and polite person. That said, be mindful of pretty women at bars who seem a bit too friendly and watch your pockets in heavily-trafficked areas.