A plan for Bordeaux

Bordeaux and the whole province of Aquitaine came under English rule for 300 years from 1154, when Eleanor of Aquitaine married the future King Henry II. The English rulers enjoyed drinking the wines of Bordeaux, but they enjoyed the profits even more – trade with Bordeaux was their largest source of income. Most wine came from the Graves region just upriver from the city, and this was a clear, deep rosé called clairet, still produced today. The English came to call any Bordeaux red wine “claret”.

In 1453 France took control of Aquitaine and cut off the supply to England, who ceased to drink wine for the next 500 years, turning to beer and gin. This caused a slump in Bordeaux, which only revived from the 16th century through trans-Atlantic trade. The city then prospered through the 18th century, when most of its fine buildings were erected, and it provided the model for Baron Haussmann's 19th-century remodelling of Paris. Bordeaux also came to eclipse other French Atlantic ports such as Bayonne and La Rochelle. Much of the wealth was based on the triangular slave trade: sugar, rum and other plantation products were shipped to France from the Americas and Caribbean, France shipped industrial wares to Africa, whence the slaves were sent west to work those plantations.

1 Place des Quinconces is the broad leafy square at the focus of the west riverbank. The ornate Girondins Memorial commemorates those guillotined here after that faction lost the power struggle with the Montagnards in 1793, and the Revolution descended into a "Reign of Terror". The square is nowadays a transport hub - just about every city bus and tram route passes through it.

Port of the Moon is the elegant waterfront crescent centred on Place des Quinconces that earned Bordeaux its UNESCO citation. You get a sublime view from the opposite riverbank at dusk.

South of Quinconces

2 Place Gambetta, with upmarket mansions, is just outside the former walls, with Porte Dijeaux the city gate.

3 MADD-Musée des Arts décoratifs et du Design de Bordeaux, 39 rue Bouffard (Gambetta - Musée des Arts Décoratifs et du Design B ), ☏ +33 556 10 14 00. (updated Jul 2026)

4 Cathédrale St-André, Place Pey Berland, ☏ +33 5 5544 6729. Mon 15:00-19:00, Tue-Sat 10:30-12:00, 14:00-19:00, Sun 09:30-12:00, 14:00-19:00. Grand church built from 1170 in Gothic style. It was trashed during the Revolution but restored from 1803. You can climb the detached bell-tower "Pey-Berland". (updated Jul 2023)

5 Musée des Beaux-Arts, 20 Cours d'Albret (west side of Hotel de Ville, but you need to enter from C d'Albret. Bus 1 stop Palais de Justice. Palais de Justice A ), ☏ +33 5 5610 2056. Wed-Mon 11:00-18:00. An enlightening walk through the history of western art. Start in the south wing which runs from the Renaissance via the Flemish masters to end of 18th century. The north wing continues through the major 19th and early 20th-century art movements. Exhibitions are in the annexe, Galerie des Beaux-Arts, on Place du Colonel Raynal 200 m north. Adult €8, conc €4.50. (updated Aug 2026)

6 Place de la Bourse is surrounded by grand buildings. You can also admire their reflections in the Water Mirror on the other side of the boulevard: it's a thin skin of water so in warm weather children scamper through it.

National Opera is on Place de la Comédie, 100 m south of Place des Quinconces. As well as opera it hosts ballet and musicals.

Jeux Barjo, 12 Rue Saint-James (100 m north of Grosse Cloche), ☏ +33 5 5651 0021. Tue-Sat 14:00-00:00, Sun 14:00-22:00. Bar specialising in board games ancient and modern: you pay for either one long or three short games. Staff assist if you want to try a game you're not familiar with. They also stage tournaments. (updated Jul 2023)

Taste wine

Bewildered by the choice in your local supermarket? Prepare to be overwhelmed by what Bordeaux has to offer… but, if you're not sure of your taste, do make use of that supermarket to do your homework beforehand. The top vineyards start from around €500 a bottle and run up to €50,000 and beyond. This is money down the drain if you only have a €5 palate. But you can easily organise yourself a blind tasting – this cuts through all the marketing, peer pressure and posing. Blind, can you tell a Claret from a Burgundy? Or indeed from a white, or squid's ink? But if you find the good stuff speaks to you, calls you, leaves a memory on your palate, then Bordeaux is where it is calling you home.

The appellation system (AOC) of the Bordeaux area is bewildering, with 50 AOCs in eight main regions. Wines mostly use the more specific AOCs where those are applicable, so don't just look for "AOC Bordeaux". A good start is the Musée du Vin et du Négoce, see above. A variety of tours and tastings are organised by Office de Tourisme, see Understand above. These include châteaux and vineyards, city routes, and wine & cookery classes.

You can tour the vineyards independently, but then you need a car, and there's a fraught conversation to be had about who's driving afterwards and how much of a shared holiday experience this is turning out to be. Each area has its own Maison du Vin showcasing local products. Several châteaux are open to drop-in visitors, others are by appointment, ask at the Office de Tourisme. The top châteaux will be snooty if they don't recognise you as a serious buyer: they're fed up with time-wasters seeking a free glug of Grand Cru Kings-Ransom 1896.

Budget

Chat Noir Cha Vert, 47 Rue des Faures (north side of Basilique Saint-Michel), ☏ +33 5 5795 9332. Pleasant place for light bites and views of the basilica. (updated Jul 2023)

Beirut Kitchen, 8 Quai de la Grave (east side of Basilique Saint-Michel), ☏ +33 7 8846 9367. Wed-Fri 12:00-14:00, 19:00-22:00, Sat Sun 12:00-22:00. Good mezze and other Levantine fare. (updated Aug 2026)

Chez Ta Mère, 12 Rue Camille Sauvageau (50 m south of Basilique Saint-Michel), ☏ +33 5 5692 5512. Tue-Sat 18:30-02:00. As the name suggests, they serve rustic home-style cuisine. (updated Jul 2023)

Remparts Café, 75 Rue des Remparts (north side of cathedral), ☏ +33 5 5681 4429. Mon-Fri 08:00-20:30, Sat 08:00-19:00. Charming bistro a few steps from the cathedral. (updated Jul 2023)

L'Autre Petit Bois, 12 Place du Parlement (west side of plaza), ☏ +33 5 5648 0293. Daily 09:00-00:45. Quirky sandwich cafe, generous portions, gets crowded. (updated Jul 2023)

Mid-range

Café Populaire, 1 Rue Kléber (200 m east of Place de la Victoire), ☏ +33 5 5694 3906. Wed-Sat 19:30-02:00. Relaxed restaurant, then it morphs into a dad-dancing arena. (updated Jul 2023)

1 Le Café du Port, 1 Quai Deschamps, ☏ +33 5 5677 8118. Daily 12:00-14:00, 19:30-22:30. Great views of Pont de Pierre and the left riverbank. Good dining to match, they often host events. (updated Jul 2023)

2 L'entrecôte, 4 Cours du 30 juillet, ☏ +33 5 5681 7610. Daily 12:00-14:00, 19:00-22:00. A city institution, no reservations and you'll probably have a long wait in line. What you get is a walnut salad, two pieces of entrecôte steak and unlimited fries, plus dessert and wine. Most customers reckon it's worth the wait. (updated Jul 2023)

3 Couleur Cafe, 28 Rue du Pere Louis de Jabrun, ☏ +33 5 5648 2858. Mostly positive reviews for this bistro by the cathedral. (updated Jul 2023)

4 Chez Faty, 190 Cours Saint Louis, ☏ +32 6 6791 2661. Mon-Sat 11:00-14:30. Delicious lunchtime couscous and tajine. (updated Jul 2023)

MAMACAM, 83 Cr Victor Hugo (Porte de Bourgogne A D ), ☏ +33 987-03-83-97. Mon–Fri 12:00–14:30. Food made with local products. Always vegetarian options. from €13.50. (updated Aug 2026)

Place de la Victoire is the main place for pubs and bars, while night-clubs are on the Quais near the railway station.

Dick Turpin's, 72 Rue du Loup (100 m east of cathedral), ☏ +33 5 5648 0752. Tue-Sat 17:00-02:00, Fri Sat 18:00-01:00. English style pub with good drink and music, relaxed friendly vibe. (updated Jul 2023)

El Chuchumbe, 6 Rue Causserouge (off Rue Leyteire), ☏ +33 5 5631 2588. Wed-Sat 18:00-02:00. Latin bar serving inexpensive mojitos, and towards midnight it becomes a salsa dance floor. (updated Jul 2023)

The Frog and Rosbif, 23 Rue Ausone (100 m south of Porte Cailhau, Place du Palais A ). Sun-Thu 17:00-01:00, Fri Sat 17:00-02:00. English pub with micro-brewery in a 16th century women's prison, a popular gathering spot for live TV sports. (updated Aug 2026)

Le Café Brun, 45 Rue Saint Rémi (one block north of Place de Parlement), ☏ +33 5 5652 2049. Mon-Sat 09:00-01:40, Sun 13:00-01:40. Atmospheric old bar with a huge selection of whiskies and Belgian beers. (updated Jul 2023)

Brique House Bordeaux (Backyard), 40 Allées d'Orléans (Quinconces B C D ), ☏ +33557996792. Mon-Sat 12:00-00:00, Sun 11:30-19:00. Originally from Lille this popular Taproom-restaurant is now in Bordeaux. (updated Aug 2026)

Space Factory, 5 rue Beaubadat (Gambetta - Musée des Arts Décoratifs et du Design B ), spacefactory33@gmail.com. Craft beer bar (updated Aug 2026)

Orientation

Bordeaux's centrepiece is the elegant riverfront and former port, where fine 18th-century buildings stretch for 3 km (2 mi) along the west bank of the Garonne, from Quinconces in the north to St Croix in the south. The old central districts of St Pierre and St Michel extend inland for about 1 km. Most city sights are in this area. The railway station is south, at the foot of Cours de la Marne. To the north, Quai des Chartrons has been redeveloped as the “City of Wine”, and has the wine museum. The main university campus is in the suburb of Talence, 10 km southwest. The districts east of the river are modern: the main reasons to cross are for the view back west in morning sunshine, and to visit the Botanic Gardens.

On foot

Although Bordeaux is a big city, the sights of interest are fairly close together in the old centre, and much of it is pedestrianised. A car here would be a handicap.

By bus

All public transport information is posted on the TBM website. Maps and times can also be easily accessed with Google Maps, just select route "By public transport" when getting directions.

The city bus routes fan out from four hubs:

The main railway station, Gare Saint-Jean, has buses to city centre, university, and north side.

Place de la Victoire has buses to the centre, railway station, University, and north and south-west sides of the city.

Place Gambetta has buses to la Victoire, the railway station, and west, north-west, and north sides.

Quinconces is a main interchange between trams and buses.

A small electric bus la navette du centre-ville potters around the pedestrian areas. It has no bus stops, just wave your hand to be let on, and tell the driver when you want to get off.

Usual advice about care of valuables, traffic, and avoiding low-life. The city is not immune to pickpocketing and drink-spiking.