A plan for Athens

Ancient Athens

According to mythology, the Greek Gods Poseidon and Athena wanted to claim the city for their own. To persuade the people to accept them, they granted gifts. Poseidon struck his spear into the ground and produced running water. Athena gave the city olive trees, which provide food and economic prosperity through trade. The people were then asked to vote for the Gods, and Athena won by a single vote, resulting in the city bearing her name.

The first pre-historic settlements were constructed in 3000 BCE around the hill of Acropolis. According to legend the King of Athens, Theseus, unified the ten tribes of early Athens into one kingdom in around 1230 BCE. This process of synoikismos (συνοικισμός) – bringing together in one home – created the largest and wealthiest state on the Greek mainland, but it also created a larger class of people excluded from political life by the nobility.

By the 7th century BCE, social unrest had become widespread, and the Areopagus appointed Draco to draft a strict new law code (hence "draconian"). Still, the Draconian laws were a big advancement, as they codified crime and punishment unlike the previous arbitrary judgments of the rulers. When Draco's system failed, they appointed Solon, with a mandate to create a new constitution (594 BCE). This was the great beginning of a new social revolution, which was the result of the democracy under Cleisthenes (508 BCE). When Roman historians wrote the history of their own republic, they fudged the date so that their republic would be older than Athenian democracy, but today's scholarly consensus is that Rome "got inspiration" from the Greeks.

At first glance, Athens seems entirely to be composed of unremarkable, four- to six-story concrete buildings, lacking character and badly in need of a paint job. But if you look beyond that, you will find little gems tucked in among the grey. The areas at the foot of the Acropolis, Anafiotika, Plaka, Monastiraki and Thissio are home to many wonderful Neoclassical buildings, trendy and traditional cafes and shops, narrow winding streets, and incredible views of the Acropolis. Little Greek Orthodox churches are tucked in among the concrete, often in the most unexpected places. These are usually beautifully decorated with icons and brass fixtures inside, but make sure you're appropriately dressed (no short sleeves or bare legs is a good rule of thumb, as a mark of respect).

Acropolis

1 Acropolis of Athens, ☏ +30 210 3214172. It was the ancient fortified town of Athens, dating back to the Late Bronze Age. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its historic role and the many iconic buildings of the Greek Classical age, among them the Parthenon, the Erectheion, and the Temple of Athena Nike. The key landmark of Athens, visible from afar, the Acropolis dominates the Athenian sky and symbolizes the foundation of modern culture and civilization. The Acropolis is considered to be an enduring symbol of Western civilisation. (updated Dec 2025)

Atop the Acropolis are several dramatic ruins, in various states of restoration:

2 Propylaea. The monumental gate at the western end of the Acropolis with Doric columns of Pentelic marble. In a prominent position on a steep bastion to the right of the entrance is the Temple of Athena Nike (updated Dec 2025)

If you're lucky enough to be in Athens for the Easter Weekend, you'll see the spectacular sight of hundreds of people making their candlelit way down the hill on Holy Saturday night as part of the Easter Vigil procession.

If the weather is good, head to the beaches in south Athens. Take buses A2, B2 or E22 from metro station Sygrou, or the tram from Syntagma. Just get off wherever the sea takes your fancy. Beach-side cafes can hit you hard with prices of food and drinks. If you are the only person getting on the bus, you must flag the bus down to get it to stop or it will just fly on by. See the articles on Piraeus, Palaio Faliro and Vari-Voula-Vouliagmeni for more details.

Parks and nature

Several of Athens' hills - Lycabettus and Pnyx (see above), 1 Philopappos hill, 2 Ardettos hill - are planted with pines and other trees, and are more like small forests than typical urban parks.

3 National Gardens (Between the Parliament and Zappeion buildings). Dawn-Dusk. A Peaceful and beautiful park in the centre of Athens, easily the coolest place to hide from the summer sun. Wander around, check out the quirky art that seems to sprout up every now and again, look on in disbelief at the "zoo", sit on one of the benches, enjoy the luxuriant flowers and vegetation, marvel at the turtle and duck ponds, have a frappe in the cafe, and spot one of the resident tortoises exploring... it's a fun place to hang out.

4 Pedion tou Areos (Field of Mars). Covers 27.7 hectares, near the National Archaeological Museum. (updated Dec 2017)

5 Dionysiou Aeropagitou Street. This landmark street starts from the Temple of Olympian Zeus at Vasilissis Olgas Avenue, continues under the southern slopes of the Acropolis near Plaka, and finishes just beyond the Temple of Hephaestus in Thiseio. The street has been pedestrianised, forming a scenic route. The entire route provides visitors with views of the Parthenon and the Agora (the meeting point of ancient Athenians), away from the busy city centre.

The districts Kolonaki and Plaka are especially good areas for dining out.

Fast food

For a quick, decent and low-budget meal, try a souvlaki (σουβλάκι, soo-VLAH-kee), meat (usually pork or chicken) grilled on a skewer. They are typically served with tomato, onion and tzatziki (τζατζίκι, tzah-TZEE-khee), yogurt enriched with garlic and cucumber, wrapped inside a pita (πίτα, PEE-tah), a thin pan bread. Prices of souvlaki vary according to the confidence and/or nerve of the cornershop owner, but usually cost from €1.70 to €3, and another €5 for drink, salad and French fries for a total no more than €7. Take away is cheaper than if you sit at a table. You can get souvlaki just about everywhere, especially in tourist areas.

At the end of Mitropoleos, just around the corner from the Monastiraki Metro station, is a trio of famous souvlaki shops — Thanasis, Savvas and Bairaktaris (Μπαϊρακτάρης) — which are, depending on who you ask, the Zeus or the Hades of souvlaki lovers. At any of the three, if you take a seat and ask for a souvlaki, you'll be served a plate with meat, pita and chips for around €9. But, if you ask cashier for a pita-souvlaki, you'll get the same stuff in a sandwich to take away for around €1.70.

1 Σουβλάκι Κώστας 1950 συνταγμα (Kostas), 5 Pentelis (take Metropolis from Syntagma Square, turn left on Pentelis). It's authentic, friendly and fast. (updated May 2022)

2 The 2 Brothers (Τα δύο αδέλφια), Leof. Stratarchou Alexandrou Papagou 81 (around Alexandri Square (Gardenia)). The best souvlaki in this part of Athens. A giro will cost around €2.

Greeks love to socialize, and Athens buzzes long after its other European counterparts have laid their heads down to sleep. 20:00 is the earliest most Greeks will consider going to eat out, and clubbers start to get ready at about midnight. Many Athens clubs relocate to the beach during the summer months. Cafes spill onto the streets and the sound of lively conversation is everywhere in the evenings.

Go to the Psyrrí area (Monastiraki or Thissio station, Lines 1 and 3 and Line 1 respectively) for a number of smart bars and small clubs. It is the area immediately north of Ermou street between these two metro stops.

There are more and better bars in the area north of Ermou street between Monastiraki and Syntagma than there used to be. Aiolou and Kolokotroni streets offer a fair variety of cafés and bars. Magazé, six dogs, Booze and all the bars on Karytsi square (a small square at the end of Christou Lada street, behind Klafthmonos square on Stadiou avenue) can get very busy on Fridays and Saturdays, with visitors having their drinks even on the streets outside from spring through autumn, when the weather is nice.

The area around the Kerameikos station, called Gazi (Γκάζι, gas) has been the gay village of Athens for quite a few years. Since the opening of the metro station, in 2007, the neighbourhood has attracted all kinds of crowds. This is a home to dozens of bars, cafés and clubs, gay or not, and to small theatrical scenes, the latter one especially to the northeast of the area, towards Metaxourgeio.

Balux, Vassileos Georgiou B No. 58 Asteria, Glyfada. One of the best bars in Athens for the specific style, to call it a bar is an understatement. Balux is large complex set right on the water in Glyfada, one of the trendiest areas of the city. It is open during the summer for swimming in the ocean or pool all day and turns into a lounge and full club at night. Where Athens' wealthy go to party.

The Plateia Exarcheia square and nearby streets like Solomou have lots of clubs and bars.

Taximi, Cnr. Harilaou Trikoupi and Isavron, ☏ +30 210-363-9919.

Rebetiki Istoria, 181 Ippokratous, ☏ +30 210 2587455. One of the best rebetica clubs, often open in summer when most others are closed.

Transport for Athens (OASA) operates public transportation in Athens. Its subdivisions include STASY and OSY. A single ticket allows you to travel on any types of transport, metro, trams, buses, with unlimited transfers anywhere time within Athens for 90 minutes.

If you do not read Greek, signs on Athens transit always have a transliteration into Roman letters. Transliteration can vary; for example, Ellinko and Helliniko are both spellings for Ελληνικό. English information is abundant and most staff can communicate in English.

Fares

The base ticket price is €1.20. This covers all OASA routes except for Airport Express lines (Line M3 and Route X80). There are also Daily, 3-Day + Airport, 5-Day and bulk ticket packs. See details on the OASA fare table.

(As of Dec 2025)

The standard fare to or from the airport is €9 each way. This includes the full journey between any point in the Athens public transport system and the airport.

The contactless payment system "tap2ride" is available on all means of transport. Just tap your contactless Visa or Mastercard card or mobile phone (GPay, Apple Pay) on the reader! This will pay for a €1.20 simple ticket (or the airport fare). The cost is billed at the end of the day and capped at €4.10.

Discounted fares (students, seniors) are only available through a personalised ATH.ENA card, though the hassle and one-time cost of €4.50 will probably not be worth it for a short stay. Please note that the ATH.ENA card and ticket are different: they have different regulation. For example, the ticket is the better choice for tourists (easier and temporary) and does not allow to use for Athens Airport.

By metro

There are three lines:

Line M1 : Piraeus – Kifissia, the oldest line, connects the port of Piraeus and the northern suburbs of Athens (Kifissia station) via the city centre. Be sure that you keep an eye on your personal stuff when using this line, and be prepared for people getting in the train and asking for money.

Line M2 : Anthoupoli – Elliniko connects western and southern Athens via Athens centre.

Athens is generally a safe city. There are many police officers and security guards around the city. Many places have CCTV. Street crime is rare. Violent crime against tourists is rare.

There are pickpockets on the Metro (especially at the interchanges with the line from the Airport), buses and in other crowded areas, including Plaka. You will notice that natives travel with their hands on their bags and pockets, and keep their bag in front rather than on their side or back, which unfortunately is not without reason. If any pocket, purse, or backpack is visible as you travel on the Metro, assume it will be targeted by pickpockets. Assume that any stranger on the Metro (no matter how well-dressed) is a potential pickpocket and take appropriate precautions. Beware of dense crowds at Metro vehicle doors, especially when a door seems to be broken or jammed.

The friendly stranger bar scam has been reported from areas of central Athens frequented by tourists, including Omonia, Syntagma, and Plaka. There have been some reports of fraud. Usually, someone will stop you and ask for directions. A couple of other men then arrive claiming to be police, showing a badge (obviously a fake one). They ask if you were getting drugs from the other man and then ask for your passport and wallet for verification. While you are busy trying to convince them that your passport is valid, one of them sneaks out some money from your wallet.